Ilulissat, Greenland

Greenland has long been a dream for explorers. Today we fulfill our dream of reaching the world’s largest island, which is hidden more than 80% under glacier ice. Greenland has made headlines of late with the rapid change in its glaciers and overall thinning of its ice sheet. Climate change is real in these far northern latitudes, and we witness this today observing Greenland’s most active glacier.

After crossing the Arctic Circle on our way northwest across Davis Strait, we arrive offshore of Ilulissat town just after sunrise. Ilulissat is the Greenlandic word for “the icebergs,” and true to the translation icebergs are on the horizon as we scramble out on deck to watch our approach. The colorful buildings of Ilulissat town dot the shore, making for a beautiful entrance to a very narrow inner harbor. To our collective amazement, the Captain backs the ship into the dock with little room to spare.

We make the most of the day with a variety of activities. Walks around town, hikes over the tundra, and ice tours out among the giant iceberg on local fishing boats. Other adventurers take to the air for a thrilling helicopter flight to see the Greenland Ice Cap.

Without a doubt the highlight for the day are the huge icebergs. Not far from town, Jakobshaven glacier calves an unbelievable amount of ice. In fact, fed by the vast Greenland Ice Sheet, the glacier flows at a rate of 20-35 meters a day and produces more icebergs than any other glacier in the Northern Hemisphere. Out on the small local fishing boats, the icebergs tower above the sea. It’s a frozen gallery of ice, each sculpted into unique art forms never to be repeated again.

But the grand finale happens during recap as we head out into Disko Bay. Beautiful light paints the icebergs, now sparkling like jewels against a steal-gray sky. Suddenly, two humpback whales command our attention with surface activity of pectoral flipper-flapping and tail-lobbing. The ship makes a close pass past the whales, then we sail off into the Arctic night. Yes, even north of the Arctic Circle, the sun is setting this time of year.