Peru-Puerto Paita
It was a relaxing morning here on the National Geographic Explorer as we began our last day of the voyage in Peru. We awoke 20 miles off the coast in the Gulf of Guayaquil.
There are a lot of very physically active people on board and our Wellness Team had a full stretch class on the sun deck. During breakfast, the wind picked up and soon the sun burned off the morning’s clouds. By mid morning, countless binoculars occupied the bridge and surrounding decks. We saw Laysan Albatross, blue-footed boobies as well as our first Peruvian booby.
In the midst of bird sightings someone screamed “DOLPHINS!” We had a pod of Short-Beaked Common Dolphins approaching the ship. It was funny, everyone making their way to the bow like a bunch of kids, many wobbling around as the ship rode the waves. Everyone began smiling and giggling. One guest and I talked about how most people become more playful, overjoyed, and jubilant when they get around dolphins. We asked ourselves, “What is it about dolphins that’s so charming?” Their vivacious ways are inescapably contagious. No matter how tired, grouchy, or seasick a person may be, the precious sighting of a dolphin is a sure way to a blissful state of being. We all gleefully peered into the clear water, as the dolphins were bow riding just inches from the ship’s hull.
The afternoon began in true expedition style as this was our first visit to the Peruvian port of Piata. Some of us went inland to the city of Puira, while others studied the natural history of the desert area of Sechura. Leaving the ship we saw dry, flat, arid scenery, which seemed inhospitable. Small villages lined the road and these had numerous expansive, single-level shacks with corrugated tin roofs. Skinny dogs and hungry donkeys themed the reality we were experiencing.
There was a great deal of interest in seeking out Pre-Incan artifacts and Peruvian art. Upon our arrival I was amazed at what a spectacle we became and it was obvious that visitors were not an everyday occurrence. The bus drivers, museum employees, and local tourism board all took photos of us. With our light skin, white socks, and sunburns we became gringo superstars! The town was hospitable and happy to welcome us and the museum had many interesting artifacts and artwork on display. After a carob banana drink and some spicy plantains we were off to the market.
The market was very exciting as we were inundated with eclectic colors, aromas and sights; however the first thing we experienced was a funeral procession. Solemn faces marched down the dusty street carrying a casket decorated in fresh flowers. None of us knew what to do. Some nodded with compassion while others tried to capture it with their cameras. We never figured out who was in the casket, but nonetheless it was an interesting experience.
Minutes later another unforgettable and unexpected event occurred; a full band greeted us with trombones, drums, guitars, and two young dancers. A young boy and girl performed the courtship dance of Tondero. These children were unbelievably amazing and theatrical. With their spirits engaged, these pre-teen performers had the talent of Broadway veterans. Their bare feet skillfully slapped the ground, as their bright smiles and dance transported us to a vibrant reality.
Vendors and artisans sat on the street steps. Some wove baskets, made jewelry, and painted carvings. Many of us were impressed with the delicate art of the filigree silversmiths. However, the one vender that captured my attention most was a gentleman selling hard-boiled tortoise eggs. He claimed these eggs helped with arthritis, heart problems plus other ailments and many locals purchased these eggs due to the believed medicinal qualities. It was interesting to observe but conflicted with our conservation beliefs so none of us took the opportunity to try this snack.
Upon returning to the ship, pastel colors of the sunset bathed the Andean foothills, softening the sky and harshness of the desert landscape. Overall, it was a radical day filled with unexpected animal sightings and rich cultural experiences.
