Stromness and Grytviken, South Georgia
Early morning fog thwarted plans for a retracing of the end of the Shackleton hike, but shortly after breakfast the fog lifted and we were able to land at Stromness. Site of a former whaling station and ship repair center, the beach here was littered with artifacts. And of course, wildlife. Greeting us on arrival were a few elephant seals and some early beachmaster fur seals, along with a few king penguins. Intrepid hikers set off inland to reach the famous waterfall that the Shackleton party descended on their epic journey, and many hikers nearly reached the summit at the pass from Fortuna Bay. Those of us who stayed near the beach had fun with photography of the wildlife, propellers, chains, and other remnants.
The highlight for many however, involved a lone female elephant seal. Just off the landing, she began making various strange noises. She started squirming around, and we soon realized she was about to give birth! A crowd of eager supporters soon gathered to witness this beautiful scene. We were able to watch the whole process including the head popping out, mother and pup calling back and forth, and the first nursing. What an incredible experience.
In the afternoon we visited the former whaling station of Grytviken. Not only is this an amazing historical site, but it also contains an impressive museum and is the administrative center for the island. Wandering amongst the buildings gave an eerie feeling of the past happenings at this location. A visit to the grave of Sir Ernest Shackleton is a must, and a toast was raised to “the boss.” Some of us set off to stretch our legs by hiking to the neighboring bay of Maiviken, and were treated to stunning views. Our luck with fantastic weather continued as calm winds and blue skies with patchy fog made for yet another perfect day here in the paradise that is South Georgia.
