In the Land of the Ice Bears, Svalbard Archipelago
Our wake up call comes early this morning, as a walrus is sighted on the pack ice. As we bundle up and make our way out on deck, National Geographic Explorer makes a stealth approach. To our surprise there are two Atlantic walrus on the ice laying side-by-side. We watch as one then the other lifts its head revealing their long tusks protruding from their upper jaw. The animal on the right seems like a juvenile with much smaller tusks, while the second is clearly a full-grown male. Camera shutters click wildly as the ship makes a close approach then backs off.
After breakfast, a brisk north wind greets us as we step ashore on Edgoya, our first landing of the voyage. Dressed for the weather, we make our way inland past the bones of whales and walrus, testimony to the early explorers who came here in search of fame and fortune. Traveling halfway around the globe, we come to experience this magical environment, and to observe the arctic fauna and flora that lives here.
Tundra wildflowers paint the cracks in the rocky coastline. Growing low to the ground to escape the harsh wind, these miniature plants bloom only a week or two. Familiar friends like saxifrage, moss champion, chickweed. Along the margins of freshwater ponds we spy sandpipers, arctic terns, loons, and other waterfowl that migrate north to nest during summer. And in the distance, a few Svalbard reindeer are sighted.
During the afternoon the ship sails west across Storfjord and encounters pack ice along the mountainous coast of Spitsbergen. It’s not long until sharp eyes on the bridge sight the first polar bear of the voyage. Unable to navigate closer due to shallow water, we observe from a distance as the animal strides effortlessly across the frozen expanse. Moments later, polar bear number two is sighted far in the distance. This bear is sound asleep, allowing the ship to approach closely. Meanwhile, pure white, ivory gulls circle overhead. Curled up in a ball, the bear lifts its head, yawns, then falls back asleep. What a special treat to get a great look at this magnificent predator. We retreat without disturbing its slumber.
After dinner we cruise the massive glacial front of Negrebreen where we see a group of beluga whales feeding along the ice cliff and a lone swimming polar bear…a fitting end to a magical day. Onward through the icy water we sail north under the Midnight Sun, the light dancing on the water like diamonds.
