Entrance to the White Sea
After departing Murmansk yesterday evening, we sailed east along the North Coast of the Kola Peninsula towards the mouth of the White Sea. Moods of anticipation, excitement, and perhaps a little bit of intrepidation flowed through the ship as we neared our hopeful destination of Morzohvets Island. Should we be able to make a landing, we would be the first expedition ship – foreign or Russian Flagged – to venture onto this remote piece of land. Morzohvets was at first a meteorological station, morphing into a military installation during the Cold War. Formal occupation of the island ended in 1992, however the island continues to collect meteorological information for the Hydrometeorology Office.
As the ship progressed further onto the shallow, sandy shelf that surrounds the island, we watched the depth beneath the keel decrease. However, using some of our specialized equipment like the forward sounding sonar, we were able to ease the ship within three miles of shore. A scout boat launched and quickly reported back that we were welcome to visit the nine men, five children (just there for the summer), and two dogs that were occupying the island this summer. Our Zodiac fleet whisked us ashore over the sandy bottom that averaged ten feet (3m) in depth. Not knowing what to expect, we eagerly clamored out onto the beach. What we were met with was delightful: Houses, some dilapidated beyond repair and some in use, lined the beach crest, while remnants of machinery lined the roads. Further inland, small ponds housed new wildlife, and the bogs were lined with delicate cloudberries. We were also able to climb to the top of the lighthouse to fully appreciate the expanse of the island.
But perhaps best yet was our interaction with the “locals.” With the help of our Russian Naturalists, we were able to hear the true story of living upon Morzohvets. Mainly meteorological scientists, the inhabitants spend an entire year on the island. In the summer they keep the equipment working and ready for the winter influx when their numbers grow to 20 and most of the science is done. Whilst we visited on a lovely sunny, summers day, we could only imagine what this low lying island was like in the dark of winter.
Another day of firsts, not only for National Geographic Explorer, but also for all foreign flagged expeditions ships, as Russia opens its doors for us.
