Crossing the Barents Sea

It was a day for reflection; a day to sort out and organize our impressions, both mental and photographic, of northern Russia. I think that, to a person, we are struck by the rich history of humankind in the region of the White Sea — the hardy Pomors hunting seals and walrus in the far north (Russian archaeology claims that they were the true discoverers of Svalbard); ascetic monks living a life of solitary worship and contemplation as hermits; the rise of the monastery and the construction of the impressive fortress on Solovetski Island; the dark years of the Soviet Gulag and the atrocities that were committed; and, most recently, the fall of the Soviet system and the emergence of a new Russia.

It was a day for honing our photographic skills, with a presentation on composition in the morning, a break-out session to learn the function of another of the buttons on the camera, and to hear our photo team offer their impressions and critiques of the efforts submitted by guests.

It was a day for anticipation, as our ship skimmed over the smooth water of the Barents Sea towards Franz Josef Land to the north. We learned something of the exploration history of this isolated archipelago, one of the last pieces of land on earth to give up its secrets.

It was a day for rest, for recharging our personal and our cameras' batteries; for chocolate-chip cookies at lunch, and Swedish pancakes at afternoon tea; both on the same day! Yum. It was an evening to gather in the lounge after dinner for an Arctic Concert by two of our talented guests, Elaine Bernstein (Soprano) and Naomi Lehman (piano). Imagine: Mozart, Schubert, and Brahms while pomarine and long-tailed jaegers (or, if you prefer, skuas) soared gracefully overhead as if they, too, were moved by the music. Somehow, the words of Brahms on our concert program, written for a lake but easily transposed to the quiet (at least tonight) sea, resonated in my mind:

"Blue sky, blue water, vineyards [or tundra] fringe the shore;
The boat lifts and rocks us gently; light fog rises and falls.
Sweet peace lies over the shimmering world.
Stormy heart, look around and become calm.
Take joy and repose from heaven and its reflection.
See the water reflect tower and hill, bush and crag,
And let your songs also reflect the beauty of the world."

It was a day on the Barents Sea aboard National Geographic Explorer, en route to Franz Josef Land.