Cape Tegetthoff, Hall Island, Franz Josef Land
Exploring the southeast corner of Franz Josef Land, our day begins at Cape Tegetthoff on Hall Island, named after the ship on the 1872 Austrian-Hungarian expedition. This expedition also named the island after the American polar explorer, Charles Francis Hall. Only a handful of expedition ships have ever visited this spot. National Geographic Explorer is most likely the first foreign-flagged expedition ship to visit here since the early part of the last century. Another historic day.
Conditions are truly arctic as we embark the Zodiacs, with temperatures hovering around freezing. Wind, mist, and fog add to the experience, giving us a hint of what it must have been like for the early explorers. The big difference being, of course, that we have hot showers and hot soup waiting for us back on board Explorer! Dressed for the weather, the adventurous among us head out for a closer look at the towering rock formations that define the cape. Rising through the mist, the dark spires of igneous rock loom over the icy landscape, testimony to plate tectonic forces and volcanic activity over 100 million years ago. From our boats we can see the remains of the over-wintering hut of the 1898-99 Wellman expedition. Although a failed attempt at reaching the North Pole, this American expedition was significant in that it was funded in part by the National Geographic Society.
As Explorer navigates through the pack ice, it’s what we don’t see in the vastness of the Russian Arctic that haunts us. This is one of the few remaining places in the far north to see legendary whales like the beluga and bowhead, and also the mythical narwhal. We’ve had glimpses of all three species over the past week, but today those lingering out on deck are treated to a good look at the giant bowhead. A solitary animal surfaces three times ahead of the ship, spewing its powerful blow before disappearing beneath the surface. With a lifespan of up to 200 years, bowheads were almost hunted to extinction and are only slowly making a comeback. Like many of the animals here in the arctic, rising temperatures are brining rapid change to the ecosystem threatening their continued survival. This begs the question, will bowheads ultimately be pushed to the brink of extinction once again as the pack ice disappears?
Global warming also looms on the horizon for polar bears, known also as “ice bears” since they depend on the pack ice for hunting seals, their meal of choice. We’ve been extremely lucky over the past several days to encounter 12 polar bears roaming the ice floes. But it’s not about the number of sightings. It’s more about the quality of the experience, watching closely how the bear moves across the pack ice from floe to floe. To everyone’s delight, we’ve had not one but three bears within 100 meters of the ship today. While we were watching one bear resting on the ice, another bear came into view swimming then climbing up onto the ice. The bears are curious enough to approach the ship for a closer look, as cameras buzz wildly capturing the moment. After a close look the bears are confident enough to turn away, going about their business of making a living out on the ice at the top of the food chain.
What does the future hold for the next generation of ice bears? There is no doubt that the planet is changing, and no place faster than at the top and bottom of our world. Will the ice be here for the animals in 5 years, 10 years, and beyond? Their fate hangs in the balance.
As we pull away from the ice edge, the last polar bear of the day disappears into the mist — a spine-tingling experience etched into our collective memories like a dream.
