Krossfjorden, West Spitsbergen

Imagine the pristine sea surrounding the archipelago of Svalbard, embraced by water and light, enhanced by the sightings of Arctic wildlife. The land itself, sculpted by years of geological processes including uplift and folding, has also been impacted by the forces of nature so evident in the Arctic, such as wind, and rain, and of course, ice. The expedition departed early today from Longyearbyen, traveling to Krossfjorden, West Spitsbergen.

As the ship turned north, the early morning light enabled the passengers to view the dramatic landscape of Prince Karls Forland. Today’s adventures emphasized the central theme of “connections.” This theme unfolded as the Grosvenor Teacher Fellows used a food chain to introduce themselves and interact with younger guests.

After outerwear decontamination and readying for Zodiac trips, we were off to land and sea. It was here that we saw a wide variety of seabirds including puffins, kittiwakes, and thick-billed murres. Common behaviors included foraging, nesting, and defending their nesting habitat. Arctic terns bombarded hikers when they explored the tundra and accidently strayed too close to their nests. Some of the hiking groups observed their first reindeer as well as a rare sighting of a red-throated loon on her nest. The journey provided clear examples of primary succession. On the rocks, there were multiple species of lichens, mosses, miniscule purple saxifrage, and dwarf willows. Up-close and personal encounters were experienced by old and young alike as they knelt to take pictures of the tundra flora. Besides being an ecological wonderland, this site also housed the historical remains of a German weather station from World War II.

Heading in for a closer view of Lilliehookbreen Glacier, naturalists spotted a bearded seal, hauled out on floating glacial ice. Eager passengers manned with binoculars and their cameras filled every corner of the deck; all eyes focused upon this impressive red-faced marine mammal. It was only through the skillful navigation of the boat by the captain that guests were able to capture the best photographs of the day. Occasional glacier calving events emphasized the dynamic nature of this fabulous Arctic landscape. As National Geographic Explorer departed the fjord, polar bear footprints in the distance were a hint of adventures to come.

In the evening, the ship continued north along its path, approaching 80°N, with the intent of circumnavigating Spitsbergen. A festive atmosphere filled the lounge, as all guests gathered for Captain Oliver Kruess’ cocktail party. Everyone celebrated the first full day while being introduced to the key crewmembers of National Geographic Explorer. Retiring to the cabins under the midnight sun, the hum of the engines lulled the passengers to a peaceful night’s sleep, filled with dreams of light dancing upon the snow-covered peaks.