Tórshavn, Faroe Islands
A foggy dew enveloped the ship as we awoke this morning, putting paid to plans to spend the morning at sea in search of marine mammals. Instead, we came alongside in the capital city of the Faroe Islands, Tórshavn. A presentation from our staff oceanographer, Jim Kelley, provided the explanation for the fog, with a congruence of airs and sea currents of starkly contrasting temperatures in these latitudes. Guided walking tours of the city covered the principal sights. The fort of Skansin that defended the harbor, the historic settlement of Tinganes, which houses many of the archipelago’s government buildings, and the delightful Lutheran church of Havnar Kirkja with its bright yellow pews, pillared gallery and organ loft. There was plenty of time left over in the late afternoon to search out a Faroese sweater or to find a cozy corner in one of the inviting local cafés. A more energetic option was a four-kilometer hike on the other side of the island from Stykki to Leymar, an energetic walk in fine weather out of the fogbank by all accounts. This walk afforded views of columnar basalt, and waterfalls with accompanying salmon ladders.
The contrast in architectural styles between the Faroes and Shetland, less than 200kms to the south-east, could not be more striking. Instead of stone buildings the Faroese tradition was to use wood and since wood does not last as long as stone and buildings are frequently reconstructed, the outward appearance of a Faroese settlement is of greater modernity—and there is a lot more color. The Faroese lifestyles combines modernity with many traditional features, however, and one of those is the tradition of whaling. There are eighteen islands in the Faroes archipelago, sixteen of them inhabited and with a total population of 50,000, a large proportion of which resides in Tórshavn and environs.
Before dinner Dr. Dorete Bloch of the local maritime institute gave a presentation on the still vibrant tradition of Faroese whaling. There are some 23 authorized whaling bays in the Faroes into which pods of long-finned pilot whales are driven, the meat being distributed for local consumption based on traditional custom and practice. Whale meat and codfish can still be seen hanging to dry outside the traditional drying sheds that we had seen in the old town, the interior of the sheds being used to dry the meat from sheep and geese. The topic is a controversial one and a long but good-tempered question-and-answer session followed. Following dinner, on a lighter note, we were treated to a traditional dance session in the lounge, the highlight being a demonstration of the Faroese chain dance.
