Bornholm, Denmark
It started out as a quiet Sunday morning as we arrived to the small fishing village, Allinge, perched on the rocky northwestern tip of the Danish island, Bornholm. There were few people walking in the streets, but the sun shining through the dark Baltic rain clouds, along with a strong southwesterly Baltic breeze. The guide books call it, “The Green Island in the Blue Baltic.” It’s a magical island, self-contained stuck in the middle of the Baltic, located only 200km from my home in Copenhagen. I moved here five years ago from Mill Valley, California, along with my Danish wife, Sisse Brimberg. Bornholm’s history reflects all that we have learned so far about this region of the world. Sweden, Germany, and the Soviet Union have all occupied it at one time, but in 1576 the islanders went to the Danish King and demanded to be a part of Denmark. Today the island receives more than 600,000 visitors, and it’s easy to see why. Danes and tourists flock here during the summer months to enjoy to sandy beaches, crafts, and the happy Danish quiet life.
Jump on the bus, off we go. First stop was a beautiful visit to the Round Church at Osterlars. Sunday morning, the Harvest Service was being held, so we limited our visit to walking around the church and admiring its 12th century, white-washed thick walls, roof made from heavy planks of oak. Luckily the sun broke through the clouds again, and we witnessed a splendid view. Classic Danish weather, when you can reach up to the sky and touch the clouds. We were careful not to disturb the parishioners inside.
Next stop on the itinerary was the famous Hammershus Castle Ruin, largest fortress in Scandinavia, a fortress built in the 13th century that is perched dramatically over the sea, flanked by cliffs and a deep valley. It changed hands several times, between the Danes and the Swedes, and was eventually destroyed in the latter part of the 18th century. The wind was howling when we arrived, but now the sun was out in all its glory. We had the chance to walk through all the remnants, in and out from the wind, and meditate and think about the history, all that we have learned so far during our expedition.
Finally it was time to take the bus back to Allinge and enjoy some of the traditional local food from this region, smoked mackerel, Danish beer and aquavit. We went to a beautiful small Smoke House, called “Allinge Rogeri” and sat inside away from the wind and enjoyed our meal watching the late afternoon sun warm up the granite cliffs in the distance.
As we parted from this island, the wind died down, and the sun was setting on the horizon. One of the most peaceful and spiritual stops of our trip through the Baltic. One guest on the Zodiac ride home mentioned that she would like to come back and spend more time on this quiet island. I felt happy to know that this magical part of Denmark had struck an emotional chord. Now we set sail through the strong breeze for Lubeck, Germany.
