Tallinn, Estonia
“These ancient stones are a part of ourselves, flesh of our flesh. We were born and grew up among them. We fell in love, fought, dreamed, took part in strikes, died, built monuments to ourselves and never lost heart.”
Leonart Meri, former President of Estonia
Early morning, sun peaks through the clouds on Old Tallinn. We are expecting 70 degree sunny skies, but like everything in Estonia, weather and political predictions are subject to change.
I was first here in 1977, arriving on a ferry boat from Helsinki, on a dark and damp foggy morning. I came with my cameras, along with my friend and National Geographic writer, Priit Vesilind, to document Estonian life under Russian occupation. Priit and his family escaped Estonia, bound for a German refugee camp, just as the Soviet troops moved in and took over their private home in Tallinn’s wealthy suburb, Pirita. It was this same town that the Soviet Union decided to showcase the 1980 Olympic sailing event, proving to the west that they too could be prosperous under Communism. Unfortunately, many of the western nations decided to boycott the event because of Russia’s invasion in Afghanistan.
Tallinn was very different in the late 70s, so many Russian soldiers. Estonians were forbidden to enter “western” hotels like the Viru, constructed using “micro-concrete” to insure all the rooms were bugged. Store windows were bare, and people lined up for bread and milk. In spite of such physical hardships, the Estonian people continued to remain proud of their historical legacy. During the 12th century, this was one of the most important Hanseatic trading centers, trading honey, wax, limestone and fur from the east.
Today, so much has changed in this proud republic. People come from all over the world, to visit one of the best preserved, original medieval towns, thus anointing Tallinn as one of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites. Today, most of the revenue comes from the Baltic Sea, majority of it coming from tourism. Over one million Finns visit the city each year. They come for the culture, exciting nightlife, and inexpensive alcohol purchased on ferries.
Our tour started out by bus with a visit to the grounds where the “Singing Revolution” began and was the center of protest that eventually led to Estonia becoming independent in 1991 from Soviet control. Our guide, Taavi, a young Estonian walked us through his city, helping us navigate the ancient cobblestones and subterranean passages, lined with limestone walls that have been polished smooth from wear over centuries.
We spent time in front of the Tall Hermann Tower, where the first Estonia flag flew in 1884, the blue, black, and white colors representing sky, soil, and purity of the heart. Overhead we hear the roar of two passing NATO fighter jets, once again pronouncing that Estonia has made the choice to strengthen its ties to the West. Last year they were finally granted full membership to the European Union, and with that came the Euro as their currency.
After a very brief rain, the sun came out again and warmed us all to the forecasted 70 degree weather.
