Morning has broken, like the first morning.
Blackbird has spoken, like the first bird.
Praise for the singing, praise for the morning.
Praise for the springing, fresh from the Word.
- Lyrics by Eleanor Farjeon as sung by Cat Stevens
A pre-dawn landing at Salisbury Plains on South Georgia. Simple enough to say or type, but the reality can be something all together different. Earlier on this expedition we were forced to scrub a pre-dawn attempt at St. Andrews Bay as just too many conditions were against us. This morning the stars must have been in alignment as the winds had dropped, and perhaps most importantly the surf was manageable. So, just as tens of thousands of king penguins before us, we pushed through the surf and onto the beach before the sun crested above Lucas Glacier.
Violet and indigo light slowly gave way to yellows, oranges and reds, as warmth spread across the plains. The sun peaked up higher and higher, bathing king penguins, elephants seals, and Antarctic fur seals in perfect light. Cameras whirred and clicked as joyous photographers tried to capture the glory of it all. The cacophony of voices added to the sheer overwhelming dimension of the moment. The sight, the sound, and yes, even the smell…it could indeed have been the very first morning. And so our moments were spent in the company of, and literally surrounded by, an abundance of life rivaling that of anything to be found on this planet. Praise for the morning…
Afternoon found us still within the confines of the Bay of Isles, but now at a rat-free refuge called Prion Island. We had come specifically to see wandering albatross, and our efforts were rewarded with views of at least 11 different birds. Adults and chicks dotted the tussock with white or grey heads sticking up to gaze in wonder at the curious visitors to their windy home. Rat-free is the key here, as no rats mean that ground nesting birds like the tiny South Georgia Pipit can make a home here, and there were pipts a plenty both high on the hillside, and along the intertidal zone feeding. Light-mantled sooty albatross capped off the afternoon, soaring high above our heads in an aerial ballet, the epitome of albatross elegance. Praise for the springing…
Salisbury Plain and Prion Island, Bay of Isles
