Inverewe Gardens, Loch Ewe, Scotland
Early morning and National Geographic Explorer dropped her anchor in the pond-still waters of Loch Ewe on the north coast of Scotland. This is a landscape rasped by glaciers during the Ice Age, ancient rocky outcrops polished into gentle domes. Populated continuously since Mesolithic hunter-gatherers passively exploited rich food resources offered by woodland, sea and lake, this remote corner of Scotland is culturally multi-layered. The natural beauty of its mountainous skyscape, in places still blanketed with patches of snow, and the gentle lapping of sea water has wooed generations of visitors. National Geographic Explorer is no stranger to this verdant place.
An early call to Zodiacs was the start of a memorable visit to the internationally famed Inverewe Gardens. An erstwhile barren and wind-scoured place, a veritable multi-colored living oasis was created by the vision and determination of Osgood Mackenzie, who began work on the garden in 1864. And what a remarkable legacy it is to this man’s aspirations. Plants from many far-flung corners of the world are here arranged in a remarkable combination. From towering native trees including beech and Scot’s pine to an understory of Asian rhododendrons and herb layer of indigenous and foreign ferns, flowering plants and mosses this is an engaging experience. Enthusiastic and animated staff shared their love and appreciation of the floral denizens of the garden. Birdsong resonated to the background call of a cuckoo.
Back to the ship for lunch, and then an opportunity to kayak in the still, azure waters of the loch was taken full advantage of. Mid afternoon was occupied with a presentation in the lounge, on those hearty saltwater bandits of the north, the Vikings. The north coast and main island groups, including Orkney and Shetland, suffered the violent onslaught of these raiders on numerous occasions in the eight to tenth centuries. Settling in a number of locations, the Norse were to leave an indelible mark on the people, culture and landscape of this region. Hauling anchor, National Geographic Explorer left the tranquil waters of this ancient loch bound for Orkney and its prehistoric treasures.
