Fair Isle and Mousa, Shetland Islands, Scotland
The vista which greeted us early this morning was like a scene from Arthur Conan Doyles’ ‘Lost World.’ A bank of fog shrouded Fair Isle with only one or two of its high jagged fingers of rock visible above on the skyline. This picturesque island lies close to mainland Shetland and is famed for its attractive multi patterned knitwear. Anchored off the southern end of the island we accessed a sheltered bay by cruising along the base of cliffs of tilted ancient sandstone.
As if by magic the fog cleared just as we disembarked, and in groups led by resident naturalists and staff we walked the mile or so to the local community hall. Here we were treated to refreshing tea and a selection of mouth-watering home bakes prepared by some of the islands’ residents. This is a close, well knit community. It is evident that there is a very strong neighbour bond tying there people together. A number of the islanders were selling their craft items including knitwear, felt hats, jewelry, and paintings. Refreshed we spent the remainder of the morning exploring the island and visited a wonderfully engaging museum in one of the traditional cottages which houses an array of local folkloric and historical items. Returning to our ship we hugged the waters close to the base of the cliffs spotting nesting and feeding seabirds amongst which were fulmar, guillemot and razorbill.
Late in the afternoon we arrived at Mousa, a small island lying close to Mainland Shetland. Occupying a slightly elevated rocky outcrop beside the shore is one of the regions’ most remarkable prehistoric monuments known as a broch. These distinctive buildings number 570 in north and western Scotland and were essentially single defended homesteads belonging to powerful Iron Age chieftains. They consist of a tall circular dry-stone wall which in the case of Mousa is 44-foot high and in shape resemble an upturned flower pot. Entrance was through a low, narrow single doorway. Inside intra-mural rooms were probably used as stores for food and a wooden framed construction formed a multi storied living space, access to which was by means of a stone stairway which led up to the top of the broch. Mousa is regarded as the finest example of this type of building and was constructed sometime around B.C. 350. We had a detailed exploration of this prehistoric structure.
The island is also home to some 10,000 pairs of storm petrels, many of which nest in the interstices in the dry-stone walls. A small bird, they avoid predators by emerging at night to feed. A number of nature hikes included sightings of grey seals, Arctic terns, skuas, and oyster catchers. Once aboard, the National Geographic Explorer made its way into Lerwick on Mainland Shetland where we tied up at Victoria Harbour.
