Port Stanley – Falkland Islands

“Colorful” and “quaint” were two words often spoken today describing our visit to the town of Stanley, the capitol of the Falkland Islands. The National Geographic Explorer arrived bright and early on a beautiful spring morning and the ship was bustling with activity as we began our full day of activities. Our biggest dilemma leading up to today was which of the five adventures to choose (not including the search for the best fish & chips in town, which we did successfully find).

The Stanley Highlights Tour provided a glimpse into the history of the area by including such sights as the Christ Church Cathedral, the most southerly Cathedral in the world, the 1982 Liberation Monument, the Government House, the 1914 Battle Memorial, the whaling display, and the fascinating Britannia House Museum. The guides provided plenty of local color to complement the splashes of brightly tinted roofs we noticed along the way.

The Long Island Farm tour took us to a 6th generation homestead where the Watson family demonstrated many of the traditional activities of life on a Falkland farm. No doubt about it, these folks work hard, but the rewards are many; fresh milk from the cows, bread from the oven, butter from the churn, and the sweet smell of peat from the stove. And talk about colorful…how about that table of fresh-baked goodies! The well-trained sheep dogs and the shearing were impressive as well. These stout-hearted souls certainly embody a quote written in a report, now 60 years old:

The Falkland Islanders come of a hardy stock, content with a decent life of personal achievement, proud of their own strength of character, their origins, and their family ties…

Richard White, our tireless ornithologist, offered a “looky loo” which means, let’s go see what great birds we can find. Destination-undefined, possibilities-endless. But with Richard’s keen powers of observation, everyone knew it would be a successful venture – and it was, with the highlight being a rufous-chested dotterel. Birding in the Falkland Islands is a delight; even the often-overlooked gulls are surprisingly colorful here.

We look forward to many days of delicious salads on board, thanks to the nearby Stanley Growers Hydroponics Gardens. The industrious owner Tim Miller took us on a personal tour of his fascinating facility. Never underestimate the power of a person with a great idea and the energy and determination to make it a success. Well done Tim, and please thank the scouts for serving us those delicious desserts.

And last to be mentioned, but not least in terms of effort, were the 15 hearty souls who summitted the historically significant mountains from the 1982 conflict. Our guide, himself a veteran of the war, provided an impressive narration that only someone who served on the front lines would know. One particularly lovely spring flower graced the trail, the pale maiden, the national flower of the Falklands. As we completed the final portion of our windy hike, we understood why these latitudes are known as the “furious fifties.” We couldn’t have had more perfect hiking conditions and it was a great opportunity to stretch our legs before two full days at sea.

To “colorful” and “quaint” let’s add “resourceful” and “kind,” and you’ve got a pretty good description of our day in Stanley.