Española Island

Naturalist Ernesto led the pre-breakfast kayak outing this morning. With a mirror calm deep blue ocean below, soaring frigates above and sea lions and sea turtles as escorts – it was a fabulous way to start off the day. Following breakfast, we sent two Zodiacs of eager snorkelers for a final twirl with the frisky young sea lions. The visibility was fantastic and the sun hot on our backs, so we were reluctant to return to the boats even after we had swum the length of the offshore islet at Gardner Bay.

Two more groups of kayakers paddled off and enjoyed the frolicking sea lions; others went into the beach and were later joined by the rest of the group once they had returned from snorkeling and kayaking. Hundreds of lazing sea lions were sleeping on the fine white sand. We strolled among them, swam in the cool turquoise shallows and relaxed on our blue and white towels, reading or just marveling at the gorgeous scenery and beginning to feel sad that our voyage is coming to an end.

Back on the ship and after lunch, we were about to watch a video or were just beginning our siestas, when the second deck officer informed me by radio that the dolphins we had been searching for all week had arrived at last. Captain Pablo took the ship north until we were surrounded by leaping bottle nose dolphins. Those of us who hurried up to the bow, could hang our heads over the side of the ship and see these playful marine mammals riding our bow wake. Wow – this was an experience that was almost like icing on the cake!

In the afternoon we at last felt the full brunt of the equatorial sun. Our walk along the dramatic cliffs at Punta Suarez was more than warm – it was hot! But we admired Nazca and blue-footed boobies, brilliantly colored red and green marine iguanas that are endemic to this island and were aggressively displaying for the smaller females, along with two other species only found here, a large and colorful lava lizard and the Hood mockingbird. Charles Darwin did not even see this mocker species when he was in Galápagos!

I had already obtained permission for swimming and jumping from the ship by the time the guests returned from the shore walk. Many of us plunged in for a final delightful float in the Pacific. What an unforgettable week we have shared! We reminisced in the lounge in the evening and made a farewell toast. This was a trip of a lifetime for many of us, I have no doubt.