Urbina Bay & Punta Moreno

Today’s two locations, on the western side of the Island of Isabela, are fabulous. The volcanic uplift of 1954 created an impressive environment at Urbina Bay. Even though I have walked here during many years, it is still hard to understand that a force could exist that could lift this shoreline. Even better, it is hard to believe that this force could be again released at any time. The deteriorating coral heads high and dry on land, helped us to imagine across time immemorial, to when free swimming planktonic larvae settled down into a permanent stasis of teeming corals forming calcium shelter.

The endemic reptiles of the region were active this morning giving us the chance to practice our photographic skills, capturing the intense yellow color of the land iguanas or the intricate pattern of the tortoise carapace. Numerous finches swirled around our heads in a chaotic but funny way that made us see both the simplicity of their lives and yet how well adapted these little birds are to this hostile environment.

At Punta Moreno in the afternoon, we had a pleasant visit in spite of the strong breeze that bathed the entire lava field. There was now no trace of the eruption that took place less than a month ago, and the volcano Cerro Azul looked impassive. We know this is just a momentary tranquility that may last for days, weeks, months or years.

Brackish water ponds in the midst of the lava held some wildlife surprises: greater flamingos, common gallinules, yellow tailed mullets and one other creature that couldn’t be identified. The subject in question was swimming very slowly just below the surface, appearing and disappearing to our eyes for about ten minutes. This reminded me of a report made years ago by an old time naturalist who claimed to have seen a snake-like animal in this very same pond about thirty years ago. When we left the site, we did so having in mind than even today there might be undiscovered species that are still waiting for the keen eye of an observer to find them.

After the hike we finished our expedition with a short Zodiac cruise along the shore line where abundant penguins, sea lions and immense marine iguanas had congregated on a white-washed lava shelf. The wind was still blowing hard and the marine breeze went deep into our lungs. We were just like the ancient mariners who refused to leave the ocean, their life, behind.