Santa Cruz Island
What a wonderful day we had today. When we awoke, we found ourselves anchored in Academy Bay off the town of Puerto Ayora. This was where we had our first close encounter with the enigmatic reptile of the islands, the giant tortoise. We visited the Charles Darwin Research Station (CDRS) and the National Park and learned about the efforts of these institutions to protect Galápagos.
This morning we disembarked on the National Park dock and walked about a half mile to reach the pens where endangered species of tortoises are bred in captivity. In rock walled enclosures the baby tortoises stumble and struggle over native lava and vegetation as they develop muscles and shells strong enough to protect them from introduced predators like cats and rats. When they are several years old they are repatriated to the islands of their origin. The captive tortoise breeding program at CDRS is an extreamly successful program and several thousand young tortoises have been returned to the wild.
We enjoyed a stroll through the clean and pleasant town of Puerto Ayora, shopping and snapping photos along the way. Sea lions and pelicans begging for scraps entertained us at the fish market. Like all the animal inhabitants of Galápagos, they were utterly fearless and did more than just beg; they stole fish heads and practically mugged the men trying to clean and filet them.
We boarded buses to the highlands and almost immediately drove into the low wet garua clouds that keep the vegetation on the southern slopes of this island constantly lush and green. We had fine garua mist dripping down our faces and clothes all afternoon long, but most of us did not mind the accompanying cool weather.
We had a full afternoon. First walking through a ¼ of a mile long lava tunnel, then indulging in a hearty lunch at an open air restaurant and afterwards hiking in search of giant tortoises in the wild. We were fortunate to find between six and eight of these slow moving reptiles, some resting, others feeding or moving through the tall grasses. Everyone took plenty of tortoise photos. Then we continued driving up the island to “Los Gemelos.” These twin pit craters are surrounded by a Scalesia forest; giant sunflower trees that are found only in Galápagos. We identified woodpecker, warbler and tree finches, found ferns, orchids and many epiphytes in the thorny shrubs.
Back in town there was still time for some last minute shopping. After boarding our Zodiacs and heading back to the ship, Captain Carlos hauled anchor and set our course for Northern Isabela Island. We will cross the equator tonight and when we awake we will no longer be “polly wogs” – we will be Galápagos shellbacks!
What a wonderful day we had today. When we awoke, we found ourselves anchored in Academy Bay off the town of Puerto Ayora. This was where we had our first close encounter with the enigmatic reptile of the islands, the giant tortoise. We visited the Charles Darwin Research Station (CDRS) and the National Park and learned about the efforts of these institutions to protect Galápagos.
This morning we disembarked on the National Park dock and walked about a half mile to reach the pens where endangered species of tortoises are bred in captivity. In rock walled enclosures the baby tortoises stumble and struggle over native lava and vegetation as they develop muscles and shells strong enough to protect them from introduced predators like cats and rats. When they are several years old they are repatriated to the islands of their origin. The captive tortoise breeding program at CDRS is an extreamly successful program and several thousand young tortoises have been returned to the wild.
We enjoyed a stroll through the clean and pleasant town of Puerto Ayora, shopping and snapping photos along the way. Sea lions and pelicans begging for scraps entertained us at the fish market. Like all the animal inhabitants of Galápagos, they were utterly fearless and did more than just beg; they stole fish heads and practically mugged the men trying to clean and filet them.
We boarded buses to the highlands and almost immediately drove into the low wet garua clouds that keep the vegetation on the southern slopes of this island constantly lush and green. We had fine garua mist dripping down our faces and clothes all afternoon long, but most of us did not mind the accompanying cool weather.
We had a full afternoon. First walking through a ¼ of a mile long lava tunnel, then indulging in a hearty lunch at an open air restaurant and afterwards hiking in search of giant tortoises in the wild. We were fortunate to find between six and eight of these slow moving reptiles, some resting, others feeding or moving through the tall grasses. Everyone took plenty of tortoise photos. Then we continued driving up the island to “Los Gemelos.” These twin pit craters are surrounded by a Scalesia forest; giant sunflower trees that are found only in Galápagos. We identified woodpecker, warbler and tree finches, found ferns, orchids and many epiphytes in the thorny shrubs.
Back in town there was still time for some last minute shopping. After boarding our Zodiacs and heading back to the ship, Captain Carlos hauled anchor and set our course for Northern Isabela Island. We will cross the equator tonight and when we awake we will no longer be “polly wogs” – we will be Galápagos shellbacks!
