San Cristobal Island
This morning we had our last wet landing, this time on a green beach. Formed mainly by olivine crystals, it feels like talcum powder on your feet while it glitters under the equatorial sun. We get ready to climb through the ravines, good shoes are needed to negotiate our way up the big blocks of basalt that have been carried down by water.
Punta Pitt is the closest point to mainland Ecuador, about 600 nautical miles away, and one of the oldest islands of the archipelago. This tuff stone cone, weathered by millions of years of sun, rain, and wind, has a particular look, unique amongst the geological formations of the Galápagos. It sits unabated, like a gigantic crumbled paper bag, discarded after heavy use. This dry, unforgiving, land is a nesting spot for the three species of boobies found in these waters. We observed red-footed boobies nesting on trees and flying by, their raucous calls echoing on the walls as they were getting harassed by great frigate birds. Blue-footed boobies danced in the distance, hoping to attract females that seemed unimpressed. Nazca boobies were seen preening near the breakers, their white plumage very distinct, as they sat on the exposed basalt.
The vegetation, another surprise of this site: the always colorful sea purslane, its crimson red occupying large expanses of the volcanic mud; the flowering Galápagos clubleaf with its particular growth; and the also endemic Scalesia Incisa, or Chatham’s giant daisy, growing on top of the highest hills…kings of the mountain.
A swim after the last land excursion is always welcomed; an immersion in cool water was the perfect ending for an amazing walk.
The afternoon took us to Kicker Rock, another spectacular tuff cone. This time we snorkeled in very deep water. The external walls of the cone are colonized by countless invertebrates, from brightly colored sponges, very diverse forms of urchins, and fern shaped hydroids. The spot is a cleaning station for sea turtles, which approach the reef with loose abandon, hanging flippers out to have their skin picked clean by eager fish. A spotted eagle ray cruised by, looking for a meal.
The cone has a somewhat narrow channel crossing right through it, from 45 to 60 feet deep with a light sandy bottom. Today the conditions were not the best, it was windy, a swell hit the rocks and bounced off the walls…it was like a washing machine, very fun to go up and down with the period of the waves. An unforgettable ride.
Another successful trip has ended: full of adventure, great company and incomparable experiences.
