Isabela & Fernandina Islands

As we awaken we find ourselves in an otherworldly area wrought with massive shield volcanoes and surrounding seas that present a virtual desert. Northern Isabela is a volcanically new area with long recent lava flows vertically reaching for the ocean. We search for activity in this wilderness and we find the occasional Galápagos petrel, almost extinct due to invasive species and currently returning to our seas. Splashes in the distance call us to a large group of short beaked common dolphins that are breaching and tail lobbing as they move at great speed, destination unknown. As we start to head south we cross the equatorial line heading back into the southern hemisphere from which we came. Passing close to Ecuador Volcano we have a rare sight of the inside of a caldera and volcano that collapsed leaving its inner workings exposed. Tall cliffs welcome us as we anchor at Punta Vicente Roca and we prepare ourselves for a Zodiac ride exploring the coastal area. Flightless Cormorants and Galápagos penguins greet us along the coast with some cormorants looking for nesting material for the newly found mates. Green sea turtles abound as they rest in this small-protected bay. Returning to the National Geographic Islander we are able to get into our snorkel gear for a dip in the cold Cromwell upwelling current of the western archipelago. We lose count of the amount of turtles as they surround us and hang in the water column as reef fish clean their carapaces. 64¢ª F and 35 minutes later we return to our home, and hot chocolate, with wide smiles upon our faces.

The National Geographic Islander navigates south towards Fernandina Island and an afternoon visit to the youngest island in this archipelago. The skies clear of the mist and we find calm seas and an equatorial sun. Espinoza Point does not seem like much as we approach this new island, however we are surprised at the diversity it holds. Large marine iguanas litter the coastline as they return from their foraging on the shallow sea algae. As the sun dips into the horizon the iguanas seem to follow the movement of this heat source. Moving in a calculated pace, we find flightless cormorants returning to their nests and sea lions warming their exhausted bodies in the warm glow of the afternoon. A Galápagos scorpion finds shelter under a driftwood log and the marine iguanas huddle to retain heat into the night. Purples, magentas, blues, and a warm orange push us to the ship as we head to the sky deck and take a breath with an understanding of life as this day moves to the night with all content in life.