Isabela Island
This morning we began our navigation across the Bolivar Channel which separates the western most island of Fernandina, from the largest island Isabela, at 0400. Conditions were calm and we had smooth sailing; we anchored off Urbina Bay at just after 0600. Following a hearty breakfast we divided into three groups of long hikers lead by our naturalists Walter, Aura and Jason and one group who chose a short hike option with me. All of us had a marvelous outing and were both surprised and delighted to find several giant tortoises of varying sizes (including one very small one that was probably only 8-10 years old!) and a half dozen large, bright yellow and grey land iguanas. We had been expecting the land iguanas, as you can count on seeing them year round along the rocky trail at Urbina Bay, but the giant tortoises were a pleasant surprise. I had not imagined that they would still be hanging around Urbina so long after the rains!
The tortoise population on Volcan Alcedo is one of the largest in Galápagos, numbering at least 5000, but these lumbering reptiles usually move high up on the slopes of the volcanos during the dry season. This year we have had tortoises down along the coast even though the rains ended in May. I have been gone since September and was nearly certain that by now the tortoises would have left the lowlands. A pleasant surprise to find them still along the trails in the middle of the dry season! We took countless photos from all angles and thoroughly enjoyed seeing these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat.
Before returning to the ship, many of us enjoyed a refreshing swim in some pretty wild waves, and the younger members of our group had a blast learning to drive the Zodiacs with Walter’s help.
In the afternoon we had several options to choose from: there were two rounds of kayaking, a snorkeling outing, a hike or a Zodiac cruise. Everyone who went out in the cove- whether they kayaked or snorkeled or went cruising by Zodiac – saw cormorants, penguins, sea turtles, sea lions and numerous other species of seabirds. Those who hiked up the dusty trail had a wonderful view of Darwin’s Crater Lake and of the lava flows to the north from the end of our walk. We had to slip by some irritated bachelor sea lions as we came down the steps to return to the Zodiac; the sea lions had settled in for the night and did not appreciate having to move out of our way.
As the sky glowed with neo shades of orange and pink we all returned to the ship content and happy following another full day of exploration in the magical Galápagos Islands. Tomorrow we will be in the central islands; we will be leaving the penguins, cormorants and massive shield volcanoes behind here in the western realm.
