Isla Santa Cruz

Early this morning we arrived at our anchorage in Academy Bay off the bustling town of Puerto Ayora, eagerly anticipating the day ahead. After spending part of the morning at the Charles Darwin Research Station learning about the unique history and variations of the giant tortoises who inhabit the Galápagos Islands, we were prepped with knowledge and even more excited about our afternoon activities. But between us and the highlands lay a mile or so of shopping, ranging from intriguing galleries of regional art and handicrafts to t-shirt shops, a satisfying stretch of retail therapy. The photo opportunities were enthusiastically continued for those who spent time at the fisherman’s market. There, masses of frigatebirds swirled overhead as pelicans perched along the dock, all positioning themselves to snatch the fragments of fish trimmings tossed off to the side as the fishermen cleaned the morning’s catch.

Whether by foot or by bus, we all arrived for lunch in the cool green highlands. A touch of garua lingered in the air alongside the delicious scent of chicken roasting on an outdoor grill. It wasn’t long before we finished our meal and embarked for Los Gemelos, huge pit craters surrounded by the Scalesia forest. It was a misty scene with clouds moving in and out. Natural history groups surveyed the area for the elusive vermillion flycatcher, while photographers captured scenic images that constantly changed with the drifts of mist.

The highlight of the day was our visit to a farm area along the migratory route of the Santa Cruz giant tortoises. As we drove into the area, we started to notice the many giant, smooth “rocks” dotting the lush green landscape ahead. Here we were able to experience the giant tortoises in the wild. There were many to be found along the grassy slopes, and it was easy to go sit alone alongside one of these great animals, quietly observing their behavior, and even musing about the era in which they may have been hatched. Jack described deep and raspy breaths of the tortoise as sounding “like an ancient wind.”

Soon it was time to head back to the National Geographic Polaris. The evening was filled with energetic entertainment by a troupe of local musicians and dancers. Finally, we fell into our bunks for a well-deserved rest after another outstanding day.