Ford's Terror, Endicott Arm
Why is everyone ditching stretch class?
"Ooooooo" and "Ahhhhhhh" were the sounds coming from the bow. Four humpbacks were eating breakfast and sending us a message, “Welcome to Alaska!” These hungry humpbacks put on quite a show as they dipped, dove, and flashed their flukes. What seemed like an orchestrated performance was just a normal breakfast for these large mammals. Nonetheless it was a perfect way to start our exceptional day.
We continued to our morning destination of Endicott Arm in the Tracy Arm-Ford’s Terror Wilderness. These valleys were carved by glaciers and then flooded by the sea. Words do this geological wonder no justice. Its magnificence is more than striking. In order to get deep into Endicott Arm we needed our Zodiacs to pass a very constrictive, tide-sensitive narrow.
The Zodiacs were driving forward, but current was pushing us back. Are we going anywhere? Our guests began to question if the reward on the other side was worth the wait, wet, or challenge. Was our expedition staff being overly optimistic? As time passed, the tide was letting up, but this pass was still impossible. “O well,” it wasn’t such a bad place to wait and we had good company and conversation. Also, there was a huge iceberg nearby that looked like a frozen, thick lipped, perfect Hawaiian wave. We all admired its deep blue density as we were attempting to surf a different type of wave. Harlequin Ducks fluttered past in small flocks, streaming above the slowly slackening rapids as our enthusiasm to cross Ford’s Terror grew.
Another half hour had passed. Lets try again and again and again…
We were taught a lesson of patience and given a reminder that uncertainty and adventure go hand in hand. After repeated attempts, we finally we made it! We celebrated with hoots, hollers, laughs, and screams. We were greeted with calamity, relief, and intimidating 2000-foot granite walls covered in every shade of green. We instantly became smaller and gave the endless number of cascading waterfalls our attention. If only we had eyes in the back of our heads, it was just too much to take in. We basked in detailed tide lines made of mussels, barnacles, and rock kelp…Mission Accomplished!
Later we arrived at Dawes Glacier. Its giant presence and eclectic shades of blue were a drastic contrast to the valley walls. We loaded the Zodiacs to take a closer look. Perfectly sculpted icebergs, harbor seals, and arctic terns all graciously shared their home with us. The frigid air encouraged us to nestle closely together as we stared in awe at Dawe. The sound of silence was accompanied by sounds of a massive, cracking glacier. Then we heard, “Oh my god!” Dawes was calving and it was astonishing. The glacier surrendered and collided with the sea producing a spray reaching over 250 feet. It was an overwhelming, uncontrollable force as we watched a mountain of ice collapse.
Today our space, time, and minds experienced a unique intimacy and adventure with the natural world. What a treat when what we do, where we’ve been, and who we think we are seem like insignificant details – when nature kindly muzzles us and says, “Give it a rest.” I heard one guest say she felt like crying all day. Another said he felt like he had been away from the city for years. If only more people in the world could feel the strength of Endicott Arm or the frigid beauty of Dawes Glacier…
Why is everyone ditching stretch class?
"Ooooooo" and "Ahhhhhhh" were the sounds coming from the bow. Four humpbacks were eating breakfast and sending us a message, “Welcome to Alaska!” These hungry humpbacks put on quite a show as they dipped, dove, and flashed their flukes. What seemed like an orchestrated performance was just a normal breakfast for these large mammals. Nonetheless it was a perfect way to start our exceptional day.
We continued to our morning destination of Endicott Arm in the Tracy Arm-Ford’s Terror Wilderness. These valleys were carved by glaciers and then flooded by the sea. Words do this geological wonder no justice. Its magnificence is more than striking. In order to get deep into Endicott Arm we needed our Zodiacs to pass a very constrictive, tide-sensitive narrow.
The Zodiacs were driving forward, but current was pushing us back. Are we going anywhere? Our guests began to question if the reward on the other side was worth the wait, wet, or challenge. Was our expedition staff being overly optimistic? As time passed, the tide was letting up, but this pass was still impossible. “O well,” it wasn’t such a bad place to wait and we had good company and conversation. Also, there was a huge iceberg nearby that looked like a frozen, thick lipped, perfect Hawaiian wave. We all admired its deep blue density as we were attempting to surf a different type of wave. Harlequin Ducks fluttered past in small flocks, streaming above the slowly slackening rapids as our enthusiasm to cross Ford’s Terror grew.
Another half hour had passed. Lets try again and again and again…
We were taught a lesson of patience and given a reminder that uncertainty and adventure go hand in hand. After repeated attempts, we finally we made it! We celebrated with hoots, hollers, laughs, and screams. We were greeted with calamity, relief, and intimidating 2000-foot granite walls covered in every shade of green. We instantly became smaller and gave the endless number of cascading waterfalls our attention. If only we had eyes in the back of our heads, it was just too much to take in. We basked in detailed tide lines made of mussels, barnacles, and rock kelp…Mission Accomplished!
Later we arrived at Dawes Glacier. Its giant presence and eclectic shades of blue were a drastic contrast to the valley walls. We loaded the Zodiacs to take a closer look. Perfectly sculpted icebergs, harbor seals, and arctic terns all graciously shared their home with us. The frigid air encouraged us to nestle closely together as we stared in awe at Dawe. The sound of silence was accompanied by sounds of a massive, cracking glacier. Then we heard, “Oh my god!” Dawes was calving and it was astonishing. The glacier surrendered and collided with the sea producing a spray reaching over 250 feet. It was an overwhelming, uncontrollable force as we watched a mountain of ice collapse.
Today our space, time, and minds experienced a unique intimacy and adventure with the natural world. What a treat when what we do, where we’ve been, and who we think we are seem like insignificant details – when nature kindly muzzles us and says, “Give it a rest.” I heard one guest say she felt like crying all day. Another said he felt like he had been away from the city for years. If only more people in the world could feel the strength of Endicott Arm or the frigid beauty of Dawes Glacier…
