Idaho Inlet, George Island, Elfin Cove, Inian Islands

Peering through a light mist in Idaho Inlet this morning, we looked with vigilance for weasels. Not just any weasel, we wanted the largest in the family, the sea otter. We found an “adorability” of otters in the smooth calm waters. Rippling this calm surface into concentric circles were marbled murrelets. In their quest for flight, the birds employed a few belly bounces off the water and then went careening away.

Mist greeted us but sunshine enveloped us as we explored George Island. Paddling around, in and through the bull kelp proved challenging at times. Jaws dropped and paddles stopped when the humpback whales came swimming by. The whales seemed to be in an entertaining mood as the Zodiac cruisers circumnavigating the island witnessed four breaches by a young humpback. The tide was low and getting lower as we continued to explore. Orange and purple sea stars hung from the rocks like holiday ornaments against a background of olive-colored kelp. The backdrop of the Fairweather Mountains and Brady Glacier added to the overall awe of the morning. Our Expedition Leader described it as getting “beautiful-er and beautiful-er.”

With an introduction to the tiny village of Elfin Cove, we were off once again, this time traipsing along a boardwalk skirting the protection of the “Gunk Hole.” Elfin Cove offered challenges, who could find a car? A bicycle? Or maybe a basketball? We did find the basketball, one of the town dogs was carrying one around in its mouth. As for the rest, it was easy to find friendly folks, kelp salsa and a beautiful setting nestled in a northern crook of Chichagof Island.

One might think this would have been plenty to do for one day, but we were only half done. Anchored at the Hobbit Hole we took off in Zodiacs towards a malodorous group of bug-eyed growling mammals. These are also known as Steller’s sea lions. Fish flinging ensued as the sea lions came to the surface with an intact fish, flung it wildly from side to side and broke it, quite literally, into smaller pieces. The gulls squabbled over the resulting fallout. We found even more whales, a few sea otters and rainbows gently arched over the landscape as a small rain squall passed through. A convocation of eagles met amongst the tops of the spruce trees.

Our day ended near Point Adolphus and a breaching humpback whale. This vacation is becoming exhausting but what an exceptional treat. These whales were such a big part of our day and our trip so far, two of our youngest travelers have written a Haiku about them.


Whale (By Elissa Qualls, age 5 & Leah Binzel age, 6)
Humpback whale, Bubbles
Blowing, Breathing, Smile, Giggle
Underwater whale