Juneau, Alaska

Misty skies accompanied the National Geographic Sea Bird into the Alaska state capital early this morning as we docked in the heart of the city. There are signs everywhere that summer is drawing to a close, and that autumn is close on its heels. On our drive to the Mendenhall Glacier the highway was surrounded by fireweed fading and wilting. The saying here in Southeast is “when the fireweed turns to cotton, summer time will soon be forgotten.”

Once at the glacier, more signs of a departing summer: sockeye salmon running in the waters of Mendenhall and the black cottonwoods and even the devil’s club are all turning a magnificent golden hue. There is a chill in the air, punctuated by a constant drizzle of icy rain. A stealthy fog rolled into the area, blanketing photographers with a shroud of ethereal silence, as the moisture dampened all sounds. Blue ice floated in front of the glacier, just peeking out of the mists.

In town all the stores were offering deep discounts to clear their overstock before all the visitors leave for the season. Our perfectly sized expedition ship the National Geographic Sea Bird was dwarfed by not one, but three behemoth cruise ships disgorging thousands of passengers into the busy city streets. We immersed ourselves in the history and culture of the forty-ninth state of our union by enjoying the displays at the Alaska State Museum.

Our true journey south has begun. It will be springtime before our ship explores this region of Alaska again. Soon after leaving the dock in Juneau, sharp eyes on the bridge sighted humpback whales. Fog and light rain reduced visibility such that whales in the channel were difficult to spot, but one whale was breaching and tail-throwing repeatedly, and brought all photographers out from the warm and dry protection of the lounge to brave the elements in the name of a photographic opportunity.

As we turn our stern to the third largest city in Alaska (with approximately 30,000 full time residents) we share stories of the wonders of this beautiful place. Our season here in Alaska is coming to an end, but the memories will be a gift that will last a lifetime.