Endicott Arm and Dawes Glacier

We entered Endicott Arm before 6:00 a.m. The mountains were bathed in low clouds as we steamed south through the glassy water dotted with icebergs from the tidewater glacier ahead. As we headed south and approached the steep walls formed by the igneous rocks of the Coast Mountains batholith the early risers spotted two goats on a ledge and a black bear looking for food along the shoreline. After pausing to view the bear the National Geographic Sea Bird continued south past rocks of the Endicott Dawes gneiss dome. The broad dome of igneous rock cut by the fjord provides a beautiful example of how glacial ice can reveal the internal structure of the Earth’s crust.

After a delicious breakfast that included smoked salmon, we loaded Zodiacs and kayaks for incredible views of the fjord. During our outings Dawes Glacier calved, forming large and spectacular icebergs which provided evidence for the dynamic glacial actions that carved the fjord; the glacier has retreated at least two miles during the last 50 years. The clouds and mist rose above the mountains to provide glimpses of sun during the late morning. As we paddled or motored around the ice, we spotted harbor seals on the icebergs, a harbor porpoise swimming in front of the glacier, and numerous Arctic terns flying about.

At 12:30 we gathered for lunch. After finishing our ice cream dessert the National Geographic Sea Bird turned north up the fjord as the clouds rose above the majestic glacial horns and ridges around us. During the trip north along Endicott Arm we spotted a goat not more than 200 feet above the shoreline and were thrilled to notice the less-than-one-year-old kid nestled with its mother.

As we steamed past Sumdum Island, we paused for excellent views of a large brown bear near the beach and a smaller black bear nearby. During the remainder of the afternoon the National Geographic Sea Bird continued north up Endicott Arm, across Holkham Bay, and up Stephens Passage to Juneau. The evening was calm and the sea smooth as glass as the National Geographic Sea Bird made it’s way north. A fine dinner was interrupted by lunge-feeding humpback whales