Ideal Cove & Petersburg
Approaching our anchorage at Ideal Cove this morning the National Geographic Sea Bird was surrounded by a picturesque Southeast Alaska scene. Layers of low clouds clung to the amphitheater of peaks surrounding Frederick Sound and fog hovered over the bays and inlets that line this waterway. Shortly after breakfast we made anchor and readied for our morning exploration of this stretch of the Tongass National Forest. The forest service has a well-maintained boardwalk trail that winds its way through this marvelous old growth temperate rainforest alongside a beautiful stream, adding an extra element of serenity to an already marvelous setting. Several guests would set out on a more rigorous-paced trek, reaching the lakes nestled higher up on the trail while others would take a more relaxed and in-depth journey into the rainforest. Lastly a group of more photographically inclined folks would spend time with our National Geographic photo instructor, Linda Burback, taking the time to get just the right shot to capture this incredible setting.
We soon found that no matter what pace you travelled, this forest had a wealth of natural history to offer. At this time of year the wildflowers are just starting to bloom, making for colorful accents to the green-clad forest, from the magenta shooting stars (Dodecatheon pulchellum) to the newly unfurling white bog orchids (Platanthera dilatata). Whether walking at a steady clip or strolling through this forest primeval, songbirds of all sorts enhanced the soundtrack. Of note where the songs of Townsend’s warblers (Dendroica townsedi), Swainson’s thrush (Catharus ustulatus) and Pacific wren (Troglodytes pacificus). All in all it was a truly rich and enlightening morning in the temperate rain forest of Southeast Alaska.
Our afternoon would be spent in the coastal fishing community of Petersburg. Steeped in its Norwegian heritage, Petersburg offers an excellent immersive experience for visitors lucky enough to make it to this authentic Southeast enclave. Mooring our vessel in the harbor alongside the fishing fleet based here provided our guests the opportunity to see, hear and interact with the men and women that are responsible for bringing much of the seafood we enjoyed on our expedition as well as at their homes. A steady but unobtrusive rain fell throughout the afternoon, providing a very realistic frame for the setting.
Many of our guests also took the opportunity to set out on a floatplane excursion to get a birds-eye view of the rugged and wild terrain that lay out of sight from our ship and shore excursions; massive mountains and glaciers that rim the straits and sounds we’ve been navigating all week. While some walked this quaint and warm community’s streets, others set out across Wrangell Narrows to Kupreonof Island to explore yet another unique facet of the Tongass National Forest, a muskeg bog. After a short Zodiac shuttle across the narrows, we set out on a lovely path through the forest, crossing a couple spring and meltwater-fed streams to an opening in the forest canopy measuring dozens of acres, a wetland community of plants unique to the northern latitudes. Instead of towering Sitka spruce and western hemlocks, a savannah-like scene unfolded where plants no taller than your ankle dominate the landscape accented by shore pine (Pinus contorta) – a fitting name considering its contorted and bonsai like growth form.
Back aboard an informative and lively recap of the day’s events was enjoyed, preceding a feast of Dungeness crabs and barbequed ribs. It was truly a classic Southeast Alaska experience from dawn till dusk.
