Tracy Arm, Southeast Alaska
Many of us were awoken this morning by the sound of “growlers”—small icebergs scraping against the ship’s hull—indicating our proximity to tidewater glaciers. The National Geographic Sea Bird had entered Tracy Arm in the early morning by crossing the fjord’s shallow terminal moraine, which is a pile of debris produced during the Ice Age when the glacier was at its furthest extent.
We were in the midst of Tracy Arm, a narrow and spectacular fjord that averages only a mile in width along its entire 26-mile length. Sheer granitic cliffs towered above us and we could see abundant evidence that the valley had been carved by glacial activity. The clear blue color of many of the icebergs made them look like precious gemstones and some icebergs even appeared to have been sculpted at the hands of an expert ice-carver. Against the sheer, glacially-polished cliffs we marveled at the classic signs of glaciation: glacial striations, bowl-shaped cirques, U-shaped valleys, and hanging valleys. In the upper part of the fjord are two tidewater glaciers (Sawyer and South Sawyer glaciers), which were joined as recently as 1880.
We found the fjord choked with icebergs and the ship worked its way carefully through the floating ice. When we reached the upper part of the fjord, Zodiacs were launched that allowed us to travel slowly through the slushy ice to reach the fjord’s upper reaches and the face of South Sawyer Glacier, where we were able to observe several calving episodes while we all enjoyed the warm, sunny weather. As we approached to within a half -mile of the 200-foot-high face of this tidewater glacier, we were impressed by the deep crevasses and blue ice. In comparing pictures of the glacier taken several years ago as well as the trimline of recent vegetation, it was obvious that the glacier had both thinned and retreated dramatically. Curious harbor seals (some of which had just given birth to pups) watched our every move.
After lunch, we slowly retraced out path and maneuvered back through the icebergs down the fjord, where we kayaked directly from the ship. It was a great opportunity to paddle on our own and inspect the icebergs, shoreline, towering walls, and waterfalls close-up.
Once back on board, the National Geographic Sea Bird exited out of the glacially-carved fjord during the guest slide show, which was interrupted by the sighting of a humpback whale near the bend in the fjord. Mist hung in the air as a partial double rainbow framed the entrance to Tracy Arm, as if this magnificent scenery was saying one last good-bye to us all. During the Captain’s Farewell Dinner, we began cruising Stephens Passage toward Juneau, our port of disembarkation and the end of a fabulous week’s voyage. Emotions flowed strongly as we bid this great land one last farewell—at least for now.
