Tracy Arm
We awoke far within Tracy Arm. This fjord is deeply rent into Alaska’s side, glacially carved into some of the hardest rock in the region. The result is topography extraordinary even by Southeast Alaskan standards. Huge cliffs towered above us, striated and scalloped by the glacier’s stony belly. Thousands of feet up, rounded peaks showed that even these heights were once smothered in ice. Clouds swaddled the slopes, accentuating the sculptural aspect of our surroundings.
After breakfast we neared the South Sawyer Glacier. Hopping into Zodiacs, we ventured forth for a closer look at the ice. South Sawyer is in catastrophic retreat. We had photos of the glacier taken in recent years that showed dramatic change, but a glance at the hillsides made that obvious – sharp lines of bare rock below vegetation clearly illustrated the glacier’s recent position. Catastrophic retreat produces huge bergs that arise from submarine calvings. Often deep blue, these bergs are exceptionally beautiful. The great quantities of ice shed by the glacier make this a fine place for harbor seals. Safe from land predators or killer whales, the seals nap, shed their hair coats and even give birth on cozy icebergs.
The glacier itself was remarkable to behold. Quite different from Margerie; instead of snowy white, much of South Sawyer’s face was deep, penetrating sapphire. Moreover, the glacier is remarkable in how much it has changed even in the last few weeks. Rather than a wall of consistent altitude, South Sawyer’s face has “collapsed” into a wall that undulates both horizontally and vertically. All of the naturalists were impressed and nearly alarmed at the strong, shifting meltwater current flowing out from the glacier. South Sawyer, normally dynamic, seems to be in an accelerated state of change.
Some of us were able to see some impressive calvings. One was a classic fall of ice, with a tremendous frothy splash and an imposing wave. The other was a submarine calving. Huge bergs rose with daunting inexorability, rising to impressive heights before rolling like a gam of great wallowing whales. The rich blue of these bergs and the glistening water streaming from their crenulated sides were deeply moving.
The weather gradually brightened until the sun sparkled from waterfalls and snowy mountaintops. This we saw from kayaks as we paddled over jade-like water amid scattered bergs.
After lunch, some opted for a hard-core activity – the dreaded polar plunge! Though the water was scattered with icebergs, the day was so sunny and bright that swimmers probably barely noticed its thirty-four degree temperature!
In the afternoon, we traveled back down Tracy Arm, surrounded by its incomparable scenery. We were pleased to find a black bear moving easily over the steep sides of the valley as it fed on berries, and later, a black sow and cubs, brilliantly illuminated, feeding on barnacles and mussels. Otherwise, we enjoyed soaring cliffs, sinuous cataracts and snowy peaks, all brightly sunlit.
Our week in southeast Alaska has been exceptional, and this extraordinary day has been a fitting finale.
