George Island, Elfin Cove and the Inian Islands
The day began with blue sky and sunshine near the eastern limit of Icy Strait. Our destination was George Island where hiking and kayaking were planned. We landed at Granite Cove, a classic pocket beach covered by pebbles and cobbles composed of garnet granite. This is a rare rock type that forms only deep within the crust and its presence at the surface indicates that tens of thousands of feet of uplift and erosion have occurred in this part of Southeast Alaska. Nice geology, but George Island has an even more interesting human history.
During World War II the island served as a base for seaplanes involved in the defense of Alaska from invasion by the Japanese. In addition to seaplane pilots there was a small garrison who manned a large artillery piece intended to protect this sector of Icy Strait. We were able to hike to the northern tip of the island where the gun emplacement and associated buildings still exist. The gun itself is now a rusting hulk, but its size and barrel with a six-inch bore are still impressive. So too is the distance that practice rounds were fired across Icy Strait to the Brady Glacier. Nearby are the remains of an ammunition magazine, an observer’s platform and a latrine with a fantastic view. We also took side trips to the main campsite and a sandy beach on the north side where deer and river otter tracks were found and cast in plaster. The feature attraction for the younger hikers was a magnificent rope swing located on the cliffs above Granite Cove.
Our next destination was Elfin Cove—a place that defines the term “quaint Alaskan fishing village.” Before lunch we got a preview of the places to see from Mary Jo Lord King, a long term resident who is one of only 10 or 12 that spend the winter. The village is laid out within a protective lagoon, encircled by a boardwalk. Unique merchandise is available, ranging from salmonberry jam and smoked salmon to shopping bags emblazoned with the Elfin Cove logo.
In the mid-afternoon we headed for the Inian Islands to do one of the best Zodiac tours available anywhere. The Inians are located right where Icy Strait meets the open waters of the Gulf of Alaska. Consequently there are very strong tidal flows here full of fish and other tasty marine organisms. This has attracted an abundance of Stellar sea lions, sea otters, and a variety of shorebirds, including puffins. The assemblage of sea lions is unusual in that they are all male. These are bachelors who were unsuccessful on the off-shore island breeding grounds and they seem to show it in their snarling, pugnacious attitude. On the other hand the sea otters are off-the-scale on the animal cuteness factor. They are warm fuzzies that float insouciantly on their backs, occasionally diving to grab a shellfish off the bottom—which they consume in the same back float position. And then there are the puffins that beat their wings frantically, just barely avoiding a crash in the water.
The last venue of the day was Point Adolphus, a notorious humpback hangout. Sure enough the cetacean gang was there, with flukes up in the sunset. Many camera cards were filled with images and magic moment memories were made in the minds of all on the front deck watching the show!
