Isla Espiritu Santo
By morning our northerly winds were still creating impressive swells out in the gulf while we remained safely tucked into our anchorage surrounded by the high red rock canyon walls of Ensenada Grande. Sculpted by winds, waves and the occasional flash flood, over time the volcanic tuff of Isla Espiritu Santo has taken on some fanciful shapes. Like frosting that was put on a too-warm cake, it drapes lacily over the edges of the nearby rock ledges.
After breakfast we ventured out of the cove and cruised south to anchor at Punta Dispensa, on the southern tip of the island. Isla Espiritu Santo was the center of an extensive pearl fishing industry that began with Cortez himself landing in La Paz in 1535. The deep shallow bays that we passed were sites of the most productive pearl oyster growing region in North America. When the early Spanish explorers cruised by these bays they found great heaps of pearl oyster shells left behind by the native people who had consumed the oysters for food. These days this beautiful island is a national park, and its stunning natural history and significant archeological sites are protected for future generations.
Late morning, a few hardy snorkelers enjoyed viewing the undersea creatures while those on top of the water poked about the rocks in Zodiacs. The adult brown pelicans are in the height of their breeding finery, and a blue-footed booby was sitting in the middle of a group, competing for attention. Sally Lightfoot crabs scuttled along rocky edges and the deep azure water underlined it all. Hikers spread across the desert landscape and up into the mountains to explore the exciting terrain, while many enjoyed walking along the sandy beach.
We all returned to enjoy a special welcome at the landing, with Jason, our bartender, serving drinks and Erasmo, our hotel manager, making s’mores by the bonfire.
