Isla Magdalena, Hull Canal, Sand Dollar Beach
Our expedition begins. Sunday morning, March 13, finds the National Geographic Sea Bird at anchor in Bahia Magdalena, just off of Isla Magdalena, on the Pacific side of the Baja peninsula. Magnificent frigatebirds and brown pelicans soar high above. A gentle breeze and a deep blue sky are favorable signs. The sand dunes on the nearby island beckon.
A short Zodiac shuttle brings us to the sandy beach where we begin our trek. Just down the beach, a group of marbled godwits forage just above the tide. They probe into the sand with their long, two-toned, upturned beaks, using the sensitive tips to find invertebrates on which to dine.
We cross the dunes finding many treasures – tracks of various desert inhabitants; a glimpse of a coyote; a flock of horned larks; sand verbena in bloom; massive middens of mixed shells, garbage heaps left by countless generations of people who lived here countless years ago.
Our goal, aptly named Sand Dollar Beach, differs greatly from the calm beach on which we landed. The energy of the rolling breakers adds excitement. A few hearty souls wade, swim or body surf. But not for long, the water is both refreshing and cold.
Back on board as the Sea Bird begins her transit of Hull Canal. Narrow and shallow, we are expertly piloted by Alejandro Camacho, just as his father, Modesto, piloted our craft through this passage for many years. Alejandro is accompanied by his son, Eduardo, who will, we expect, be our pilot some day in the future.
Lined by mangrove thickets, the canal and its surroundings are home to herons, egrets, ibis, dolphins and… California gray whales. We spotted numerous cow-calf pairs as we approached our anchorage. It is inspiring to see so many of these great mammals that were once on the edge of extinction.
Taking advantage of the sunny late afternoon, we make one last outing – back to shore to enjoy the sunset from a high vantage point. A fine end to a fabulous day.
