San Juanico Bay, cruising south in the Gulf of California
The El Norte wind continued to blow throughout the night and after a slightly rough but thankfully short passage, the officers of the National Geographic Sea Bird brought us all behind the lovely rock formations and outcroppings that guard San Juanico Bay just after midnight. The Sea Bird remained at anchor in the protection of San Juanico Bay for the remainder of the night.
The eastern skies began to light up well before sunrise promising glorious color at the opening of our third day exploring yet another secret place in Baja, California. During breakfast our Expedition Leader made her usual announcements concerning our options for the day. We would be spending the morning onshore at a location along the mainland of the Baja peninsula.
Just after breakfast, Zodiacs brought all guest, kayaks, chairs and necessary snorkeling accessories ashore for a full morning on land. Hiking would be offered first thing, while kayakers explored a very large bay decorated with a myriad of sea-sculpted rocks. An osprey was spotted carrying its prey aerodynamically towards its nest on one rock formation, while enormous rafts of eared grebes floated across the waters watching both kayakers and snorkelers.
Hikers made their way around a small estuary and up a well used dirt road leading into a large salt flat. One unusual plant found only on the mainland of the peninsula was seen – extremely aromatic and very different from many of the plants we had been seeing on the Gulf islands we had visited. Many more land birds were spotted and the scat of both domestic and wild animals lay scattered near our trail.
Once back on the beach, the usual large group of intrepid snorkelers made their way into the refreshing waters of the Gulf of California. The rock formations along the coast were home to many species and for each observant set of eyes another visual feast was waiting to be discovered. Two species of eels, Mexican goat fish, King angels, Triggerfish, several species of sea stars, coral fans and spiraled polichaete worms were part of the communities attached to the rock formations along with the tiny Coral hawkfish sitting and watching as we passed above seeking out the gorgeous bright red and pink suit worn by this two inch long fish!
Just before lunch the winds picked up and getting the full compliment of guests off the beach was not easy. Everyone was far too comfortable in the warm early afternoon sun. Back on the Sea Bird the hotel staff had prepared a barbecue lunch on deck which was the best lure to get everyone off the beach. As soon as the Zodiacs pulled up to the fantail of the Sea Bird everyone could smell the barbecue...a lovely interlude in the middle of the day.
Our afternoon was spent in a relaxing cruise, southbound, traveling with the wind at our backs. Napping, reading, relaxing all were enjoyed! In the late afternoon another natural history presentation was offered in the forward lounge. Pete Pederson spent nearly an hour discussing marine mammals of the Gulf of California. As if on cue, at the end of his lecture our first whales were spotted. Two humpback whales were seen blowing just off of the town of Loreto about twenty five miles south of our morning destination.
The sun was about to set to the west over the Sierra de la Giganta mountains of the Baja peninsula. A spray of feathery clouds began to light up in the last light of the sun. A lovely thumb nail of a waning moon was all silver overhead and the bow of the Sea Bird was filled with guests, staff and crew. These were our first whales of the Baja season...two Humpbacks making very long dives, returning to the surface, taking several deep breaths and diving again.
The sky continued to turn a deep magenta-orange, behind the silhouetted mountains of the peninsula...reminding us all of this very unique place of natural treasures in the world, affectionately called a desert by the sea.
