Loreto and Isla Danzante
Just before sunrise the National Geographic Sea Bird turned sharply into the protected harbor of Puerto Escondido; the hidden port. As our ship turned west, we felt the full force of the El Norte wind, building as we approached sunrise. After some quick maneuvers the officer’s staff secured the National Geographic Sea Bird at the dock, well inside this natural harbor. The 30 knot+ winds continued to buffet the ship even inside this protected harbor! We all counted ourselves lucky that a new option had been created for our morning...exploring the “mother of California Missions.”
The colonial town of Loreto was founded by Padre Juan Maria Salvatierra, a Jesuit traveling in the Baja Peninsula who in 1697 established a mission at the present-day site of the town of Loreto. For 132 years, Loreto was the religious and secular capital of the California’s. It took a major hurricane in 1829 for the town of La Paz to take over the religious capital from Loreto. Today, Loreto’s population of approximately 15,000 inhabitants relies on tourism and fishing as their major source of income.
Just after breakfast vans were seen driving into the port area and parking a short distance from the docked National Geographic Sea Bird. We would be making a short journey of approximately 25 kilometers into the town of Loreto, where we would explore for the entire morning. The vans parked in the central square facing the mission and from this location we had several options. Time was given to see the mission and church and then this small coastal community was ours for exploration. Walks to the sea and a nearby estuary for bird watching were offered, along with a guided walk, exploring a small part of Mexico which included the local grocery for a little look into spices and foods characteristic of Mezzo America.
Foods like chiles, chocolate and tomatoes are all new world plants and were carried by the first European explorers from Mexico back to Europe, changing the cuisine of Europe and the rest of the world. From the grocery store to several small Mexican arts and crafts shops our group saw color, not only in the food of the region but in the art created and celebrated throughout Mexico. Loreto, like many towns catering to the tourist community, has imported the ethnic art of Mexico into a small community making it available to those of us passing through and wanting just a taste of what makes Mexico unique in its celebration of art.
All too soon it was time to return to our waiting vans, and return to the National Geographic Sea Bird in Puerto Escondido. Once everyone was on board, lunch was served with a finale ice cream sundae bar on the bow! Lines were dropped and slowly the National Geographic Sea Bird made her way out into the Gulf of California, heading to her afternoon destination of Isla Danzante. The afternoon was spent in the shelter of this tiny island enjoying the water sports of snorkeling, kayaking, and Zodiac cruises.
A sunset walk was offered at the end of the day...we were still in the strong influence of the slow sun movement of the Winter Solstice. A nearly full moon rose from the east, decorating the sky and bringing a bright spot of light to the dusky sky. The long shadows of winter fell across the island as the sun set over the Sierra de la Giganta, the backbone of mountains that make up the eastern side of the Baja Peninsula.
A small group of intrepid souls walked up to one of the lookouts of this small island, watching the path of the sun as it moved west in the sky. Yet another day in this unique part of the world slowly came to a close, emphasizing a truly remarkable visit to a desert by the sea.
