San Ignacio Lagoon
Whales before breakfast. A promising start to the day. After a good night’s sleep in the rustic but comfortable beach camp I looked out and saw the characteristic V-shaped blow of a gray whale on the early-morning surface of San Ignacio Lagoon. Excitement was high, but breakfast called.
Well fed, we climbed aboard the pangas and were soon speeding out to the whale viewing area. The light north wind left only ripples and the blue sky pumped up our anticipation. Viewing conditions were excellent.
San Ignacio Lagoon is a mecca for gray whales, an ancient breeding and calving area and gray whale nursery. The Mexican government regulations would allow up to 24 boats in the viewing area at one time. But the local guides and naturalists have imposed their own more stringent limit of only 16 boats in the area at any one time. The viewing area comprises only 1/5 of the lagoon, leaving 4/5 to the whales without any human interference. The expert positioning of our boats by the pangueros showed respect for the whales and they never seemed disturbed by our presence. In fact whales actually approached the boats at times. Mother-calf pairs seemed to be most interested in us this morning. One mother watched carefully as her playful calf frolicked under and all around our panga. Only a few weeks old, we couldn't help but wonder what this young calf thought of us.
One couldn't help but wonder what the mother thought of us, too. The site of our camp was once the location of a whaling camp. Not that many years ago humans entered this
lagoon with intent to contact whales, but with a much different purpose. One whaling strategy was to injure or kill a calf. This assured that the mother would not escape as she would return again and again to protect her young until the whaler's weapons finished their job. It is possible that some gray whales are still alive today that lived through this period of history. To feel the passion of the guides and naturalists that now advocate for the protection of these animals and to witness this new chapter in the relationship between humans and whales created a real sense of optimism.
I had anticipated this moment for so long. But I was not prepared for the intense emotion I felt when the whales encountered us. Words are hard to find that can convey the profound sense of awe and wonder that surged inside me. To have a 40-foot-long 40-ton animal glide so gently along and under your small craft, then surface and gaze at you is a life-changing moment. People often cry when they touch a whale, an event so powerful the body seemingly can't contain it within. Some of us touched whales this trip. I did not. But the whales "touched" me with an intensity that will not soon be forgotten.
Our guide announced that we should say farewell to our "good-bye" whale and we were once again skimming along at high speed back to camp. The boats can run at fast speed along the edge of the lagoon by operating them in water too shallow for whales to be present. Many bird specs including Heermann's gulls, red-billed tropicbirds, loons, brants, brown pelicans, and surf scoters were enjoyed along the way.
The Baja sun was warm as we enjoyed our lunch and final views of San Ignacio Lagoon. Back aboard the vans we rumbled along the dirt road until it gave way to the paved road that would carry us back over the Baja Peninsula. We stopped again at the small town of San Ignacio, surrounded by an oasis of date palms. We stretched our legs and snacked on nachos and drinks under the cool canopy of trees in the tranquil town square.
The National Geographic Sea Bird was a welcome sight as we returned to Santa Rosalia. Lines were soon cast and we sailed north near Tortuga Island. The sea was calm and the surface faded to mercury and pink as the evening sky turned silver.
Sharon Grainger gave a fascinating presentation about the history of chilies and their importance to Baja and the world. After our elegant buffet dinner we all sang “Happy Birthday” to Sharon, who has celebrated more of her birthdays in Mexico than anywhere else.
After dinner Alberto shared a movie that he and his wife made about Isla Rasa and the colonies of seabirds that depend upon this critical nesting and breeding site.
The National Geographic Sea Bird quietly drifted under a bounty of stars as we turned out our lights. Another very amazing day.
