Gorda Banks, San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas
Calm seas and a soft blue and gold sunrise brought us gently into another beautiful day in Baja California. By dawn we were passing the large rocky headland of Cabo Frailes and scouting for another species of great whale – the humpback, known for its long pectoral fins and active surface displays. We didn’t wait long to see the bushy blows of this endangered baleen cetacean and soon were very near a group of three males competing for the right to escort a female. Male baleen whales are slightly smaller than females, though at more than 40 feet each, these three whales slashing the surface with their flukes and potentially pummeling each other just off our bow looked enormous! Not far away, a female with her small calf swam placidly, the recently born humpback surfacing frequently and seemingly oblivious to the wild gyrations of the nearby males.
The palm-lined estero of San Jose del Cabo offered excellent birding with views of the stunning vermillion flycatcher, Scott’s oriole, green and blue-winged teals, osprey hunting for fish – about 35 species in a bit more than two hours. This is by far the largest year-round fresh water in Baja California and has been visited by many groups of people, from the Pericu Indians who fought against the Jesuits trying to establish a mission to the Manila galleons and pirate ships looking for food and water following long Pacific Ocean crossings.
We closed our day at Land’s End, the infamous granite arch at Cabo San Lucas. This granite formation runs up the gulf and connects to our first day’s travels – the beautiful oceanic Isla Santa Catalina. Tonight we head into the Pacific Ocean toward the inside waters of Magdalena Bay where we expect to encounter the California gray whale.
