Gray Whales, Boca de Soledad
We spent the day near Boca de Soledad, the entrance to the open Pacific at the north end of Isla Magdalena. This barrier island holds no end of beachcombing treasures. Walkers ashore followed fresh coyote tracks through the dunes. Here they found mangrove seeds high and dry like tiny stranded arks. Along the shore were shark skulls, clam shells, and spikey bits of sea turtle skeletons.
But the major attraction was in the water. Gray whale cows give birth here, and fatten and exercise their calves until they are ready for the long migration to the Bering Sea. By Zodiac we spent time with the whales. The cows are ponderous and powerful. The strength in their tails is daunting, as only those close by in tiny boats can sense. The calves are as awkward and cute as any babies. Though they announce themselves with mighty spouts, it is amazing how quickly they can lose themselves in murky water. Still, we were able to get fantastic views of the whales. Some rose to “spyhop,” lifting their heads for an aerial view. Others leapt from the water to make a mighty splash.
Amazingly, some of these wild creatures are pleased to make contact with us. They approach our boats so that we can feel their smooth rubbery skin, and sputter as we are spouted upon. There can be few joys like laying hands on a wild baby whale!
