Boca de la Soledad, Magdalena Bay

This morning a dense fog covered the whole area of Santo Domingo-Magdalena-Almejas lagoon complex, nursery of the gray whales. The National Geographic Sea Bird moved slowly through the mist (like a giant ghost!) from the night anchorage south of Lopez Mateos town to a new location close to Boca de la Soledad, our destination for the whale watching activities. As we got prepared for boarding our Zodiac boats, the fog dissipated and a bright and warm sun replaced it. Some of us were taken to the beach first. Guests and naturalists explored the very interesting ecosystem that is formed by sand dunes and halophyte vegetation (composed mainly by short, low-lying salt-tolerant bushes, like milkweed, sand verbena, sea purselane and rattleweed, among others). Right in the middle of the harsh dune environment we observed the largest inhabitant of it: the nomadic coyote, trying to hide from humans. The second largest native mammal is the black-tailed jackrabbit seen several times running away over the numerous valleys and crests of dunes, so graceful that it can be said it is representing the very soul of these solitudes. When we reached the Pacific side of Magdalena Island, groups of brown pelicans, elegant terns and California gulls were observed just standing on the beach, probably resting after their feeding activities. Groups of double crested cormorants were busy digging and shoveling on the sand dunes to get dry roots or other stuff to build their nests over the mangroves.

The whale watching activity was conducted throughout the day in four rounds. There were high numbers of pairs of mothers and calves. Because we had a full moon last night, the tides (in their way in and out of the lagoon) caused strong currents that were used by the cows and calves to play. In fact, these Leviathans like to keep the same speed of the currents, but traveling in opposite directions. The protective mothers don’t like to be taken outside the lagoons with their vulnerable calves; neither do they allow the currents to take them deep in the lagoon complex because of the dangers of getting stranded. In consequence, most of the pairs of whales were located between Lopez Mateos town and the northern entrance, called Boca de la Soledad (Mouth of Solitude), a wide and deep passage. In this area they displayed all their capabilities, like breeching, spy-hopping, rolling, and a long etcetera. Most of us, finally, had the great and unique opportunity of stretching our arms and hands, and touched and petted them!