Los Islotes and Isla Espiritu Santo
Last night we learned from our expedition leader, Jim Kelley, about the Green Flash. And so today we knew we had perfect conditions: a sharp horizon, cold calm water versus hot air, the clear atmosphere of Baja’s wonderful dessert, but above all, attentive observers; some a bit skeptical, however very alert.
A few minutes after seven o’clock, as the Earth continued in its endless rotation, the sun rose, and we were converted; we did enjoy a fabulous green flash. Soon afterwards, Los Islotes islet shone in red with fresh sunlight. Sea lions were already awake; we could hear them even before we saw them (and we could smell them too!).
After breakfast we boarded the Zodiacs and went to meet the noisy creatures of the area. Not only sea lions, in all their shapes, sizes, ages, and colors, but pelicans, brown and blue-footed boobies, cormorants, and frigates birds. Then we explored the aquatic realm of Los Islotes, teeming in sardines, yellow-tailed surgeonfish, and hogfish. But sea lions were again the stars of the show as they danced underwater, sometimes far, and sometimes a bit too close.
By two in the afternoon we had moved to the southern part of Espiritu Santo Island, Bonanza Bay, a beach with a very suitable name. It means prosperity, abundance, and fortune.
We indeed were fortunate. Some of us enjoyed a lovely hike where we learned from naturalist William Lopez-Forment about the unique adaptations of plants in order to survive in the desert. We clearly distinguished the two different kinds of formations that make this side of the island, separated by La Paz fault: ancient granite and right across, younger volcanic rocks. We discovered all sorts of shells and cones far up into the hills, the evidence of a reef uplifted in geologically recent times.
Some guests preferred to snorkel, some to kayak, but by five-thirty we were all at the beach ready to enjoy a barbecue dinner. Jim and William told us stories about the Peninsula, its names and its gods. We learned that the moon has a rabbit, an Aztec goddess that was thrown up into the skies together with her four hundred siblings that ended up making the stars. Four hundred for the Aztecs was synonymous of infinite. We have absorbed so much along the day, we have experienced wonderful feelings. We are indeed fortunate to be here, with the moon and its four hundred siblings, and odd-shaped islands in a vermillion magical sea. I love Baja California!
