Los Islotes & Espiritu Santo-Partida Islands
Our calm night’s sleep was interrupted at sunrise by a northbound navigation from the anchorage site at Ensenada Grande to Los Islotes, our morning destination for today. The National Geographic Sea Bird sailed with strong winds against, rocking a little bit, but our goal was worth it since Los Islotes is a very well known haul out for California sea lions and seabirds.
Once at Los Islotes, the wind dropped off and we were able to put the Zodiacs in the water and undertake cruises around this magnificent guano-topped rockery constructed of old, highly eroded, red-colored volcanic rock. The sea lions were found all around the islets, many of them sleeping and sunbathing. Some individuals got upset by the presence of other sea lions trying to get the same resting spot, climbing above the original owners. This caused a group arguing and the subsequent expelling of the invaders. A lot of puppies from the last breeding season were playing in the water too, and many sub adult males swam back and forth actively. The majestic beach masters, bulls that can reach a weight of 900 pounds, made their sparse presence into small mixed groups of females and puppies.
Lots of seabirds, principally pelicans and blue-footed and brown boobies, were also seen capturing fish actively. Since there is a great abundance of schooling fish in this non-take zone, the seabirds plunge-dove from the heights, just like a rain of spears falling from the Gods’ Heavens and during the whole morning. Snorkeling occurred right after the Zodiac cruises, so most of our guests and naturalists experienced the seabirds fishing from the submarine perspective, as well as the gracefulness of the sea lions diving amongst them. On the cliffs, male and female brown pelicans and blue-footed boobies were involved in their respective courtship behaviors, including complicated rituals of showing intense colored body parts, like red gular pouches and blue feet.
In the afternoon the ship moved south to Bahia Bonanza, a long beach of fine white sand and clear blue-green waters in the southeastern part of Espiritu Santo-Partida Sur island complex. Some of our guests hiked in search of the forever and ever elusive black jackrabbit, and were successful in seeing it several times. Others went to walk by themselves in the solitude of the beach, and others discovered the beautifulness of the different plant species that thrive on the island. This location was the perfect end to a trip full of unexpected wonders that commenced in Magdalena Bay and brought us to the famous Sea of Cortez where we discovered some of the region’s secrets.
