The Hells Canyon of the Snake River
Angel Sobotta of the Nez Perce Nation came on board this morning and shared the astounding story of her family history. She welcomed us to her ancestral lands in the Nez Perce language, and sang us a traditional welcome song. As a direct descendent of the great Chiefs Red Grizzly Bear and Twisted Hair, she brought the presence of the Nee-mee- poo people and the Corps of Discovery right into our living room here aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird. Listening to Angel was a powerful and memorable experience.
On board the jetboat Hells Canyon Dream, we roared up the Snake River with Captain Pat and Leon, our faithful deckhand. Nine hundred horsepower makes the boat light and quick in the rapids and shallow water and we soon left the twin towns of Lewiston, Idaho and Clarkston, Washington behind. The first frosting of snow lay on the distant mountains, and down in the canyon bottom the dark basalts were set off by the striking gold leaves on mulberry trees and the bright red of sumac dotting the hillsides. We’ve been fortunate on this late fall trip, as the weather and fall colors have been most agreeable.
Looking for wildlife and listening to the local stories of the early settlement in the canyon told by our captain makes for a very pleasant passage of the day; a brief look at a golden eagle soaring behind a rocky outcrop, ducks and geese in the water, the silhouette of a kingfisher. We stopped to watch a flock of about 20 wild turkeys and then pulled into Buffalo Eddy to photograph and contemplate a large panel of ancient and mysterious petro glyphs.
The wildlife “prize” in this day’s adventure is the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. Nearly wiped out by hunting and disease, they have been successfully reintroduced into Hells Canyon. We spotted several small groups of these magnificent animals; most were perched gracefully atop basalt outcrops in places we mere humans could never attain.
Our last stop at Cache Creek Ranch brought us to an old homestead with an orchard, a small museum and a friendly host. It offered some spectacular views down the canyon and for some of us, a close look at some curious mule deer. It was a grand fall day of natural wonders and fine companionship.
