Astoria Oregon, Fort Clatsop, and Cape Disappointment
At dawn we sailed under low, gray, rainy skies toward the Pacific Ocean. From here we saw the mouth of the mighty Columbia with swells from the open sea breaking white on the treacherous Columbia River Bar to the south and bright blinks of light from the Cape Disappointment lighthouse on the north. Swells rocked the doughty National Geographic Sea Bird as ragged gray clouds scudded over and a chill wind and pelting rain drove many from the bow to the warm comfort of the main lounge.
The National Geographic Sea Bird docked at Astoria, Oregon, with fishing boats off the bow, and to our stern was the large US Army Corp of Engineers ship Essayon, a dredge ship that works constantly to keep open the shipping channel in the lower Columbia. One could feel the energy of this bustling port city. Large oceangoing ships waited to load or offload their cargos. Gulls wheeled and cried overhead and harbor seals and California sea lions swam near the docks.
Our first excursion was to Fort Clatsop to see the replica of the log fort where Lewis and Clark and 28 of their men, plus Sacagawea and her small son, spent the cruel winter of 1805-06. We toured Fort Clatsop, learned how the explorers made candles, and during a lucky break in the weather, took the trail to the water through the temperate rain forest, learning about the trees and berry plants growing there.
At the excellent Columbia River Maritime Museum we learned about the Columbia River Bar, known as “the graveyard of the Pacific,” and how it has, since 1792, claimed 2000 vessels and 700 lives. Many ships and lives are now saved by the Columbia River Bar Pilots and the specially-trained Coast Guard rescue squad. Here one could also become an expert on the history of tattoos!
After a perfect onboard lunch for a cold, rainy day—chili and clam chowder—we crossed the river to the Washington side, bound for the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center at Cape Disappointment. Wind and rain continued and after days of beautiful weather it seemed appropriate that we experience a small taste of the weather that Lewis and Clark and their Corps of Discovery endured in the autumn of 1805 and the winter that followed when it rained for all but a few days. From the Center we could face into the wind and see great waves breaking at the base of the cliffs below and the Cape Disappointment lighthouse on the nearby headland.
Back onboard we enjoyed cocktails and hors d’ oeuvres along with the slide show of our trip prepared by Linda. A farewell from Captain Coughlin, and a humorous lesson on nautical terms by Sue was followed by the Captain’s dinner. Then we were off to pack for tomorrow’s departure, this journey at an end, but eager for our next adventure.
