Clarkston, Washington and Hell’s Canyon
We awoke to a beautiful sunrise on the Snake River as we approached Clarkston, Washington, our destination. Guests faced an excruciating decision—travel on up the Snake on jet boats, or motor coach up the adjoining Clearwater River on a Lewis and Clark site tour. Either trip had long-lasting benefits. The Snake River crew saw more Rocky Mountain sheep than usual, including the magnificent full-curl animal pictured here. A flock of wild turkeys, golden eagles, and great blue herons encouraged the photographers. Ancient petroglyphs, abandoned homesteads, and paddle-wheel steamship wreckage testified to the history of Hell’s River Canyon. For two young travelers, the most amazing sight was a grass airstrip running up and down a hill. Fortunately, we were not traveling by air. Riding on a jet boat is an experience in itself. Doing so amid exemplary scenery on a beautiful sunny day only enhances the experience.
The Clearwater River, about 70 miles worth, hosts the largest collection of extant Lewis and Clark sites anywhere in the nation. Most of these sites are little changed since the Expedition’s visit in 1805 and 1806—205, 206 years ago. Our narrator, Lin Laughey, a native and a scholar, grew up in the area and has hiked every trail and floated every stream first described by Lewis and Clark. The entire journey occurred on the Nez Perce Indian Reservation, and we learned much about their history. The Nez Perce experience is a metaphor for American Indian history, but the resilient tribe remains a progressive force in local communities.
We followed the Expedition’s routes in 1805 and 1806. So in the morning, travelling west to east, we pursued the homeward trek of 1806. In the afternoon, retracing our steps, we were back in 1805, heading for the Pacific Ocean. If this sounds confusing, it was not so, thanks to Lin’s clear expositions. Participants were ready to award him a medal at the end of the day.
Our group consists of some three dozen travelers under the auspices of Smithsonian Journeys. Most of the remainder are from the Harvard Museum of Natural History. Few participants had previously visited the area. Coming through eight locks and dams on the Columbia and Snake Rivers was a first-time experience. Topping that with the jet boat and Expedition outings was almost added gravy. None of us will ever forget one of the most enlightening and educational days of our lives. Thanks be to Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic.
