Lake Eva (NE Baranof Island) & Sitkoh Bay (SE Chichagof Island)
Pajama-clad and bed-headed we trundled to the bow. Never mind the rain, the wind, the gray day dour flour sky; the distant headlines and traffic fines, the hot concrete and tired feet, a million people late for work and working late. Our expedition leader, Michelle, announced “Bears!” and we sprang from our beds, wide-eyed, nautical-footed, cameras ready. On shore, directly ahead, cradled in a thousand shades of green, three Alaska brown bears – one mama and two cubs, coastal cousins of the grizzly, Ursus arctos – went about their lives, feeding on grasses (so it appeared), waiting for salmon. We watched in hushed tones of wonder, and deeper still – silence.
After breakfast, we dropped anchor in Hanus Bay. While some of us hiked at a leisurely pace to a white-water cascade, others kicked things up and made it all the way to Lake Eva, a three mile round trip. We spotted pink salmon in the river, and swallows winging inches over their own reflections. Embroidered by flowers, ferns and droplets of rain, the trail made for nice photography. Groves of massive trees carried us back hundreds of years to when those same great sentries were seedlings.
After lunch, we found a lee from the wind by returning to Sitkoh Bay, where we had seen the bears earlier. Mama and her two cubs were still there, closer, as we watched from Zodiac School: the kids were getting a chance to steer those remarkable inflatable boats that make expedition cruising so adaptable and fun. Add to that an hour of kayaking and our day was full. Never mind the wind or the rain. After awhile we wear the weather like an old coat. Our rain pants are muddy, our faces bright, and already we’ve made new friends drawn together by discovery and joy, speaking the language of shared adventure.
Pajama-clad and bed-headed we trundled to the bow. Never mind the rain, the wind, the gray day dour flour sky; the distant headlines and traffic fines, the hot concrete and tired feet, a million people late for work and working late. Our expedition leader, Michelle, announced “Bears!” and we sprang from our beds, wide-eyed, nautical-footed, cameras ready. On shore, directly ahead, cradled in a thousand shades of green, three Alaska brown bears – one mama and two cubs, coastal cousins of the grizzly, Ursus arctos – went about their lives, feeding on grasses (so it appeared), waiting for salmon. We watched in hushed tones of wonder, and deeper still – silence.
After breakfast, we dropped anchor in Hanus Bay. While some of us hiked at a leisurely pace to a white-water cascade, others kicked things up and made it all the way to Lake Eva, a three mile round trip. We spotted pink salmon in the river, and swallows winging inches over their own reflections. Embroidered by flowers, ferns and droplets of rain, the trail made for nice photography. Groves of massive trees carried us back hundreds of years to when those same great sentries were seedlings.
After lunch, we found a lee from the wind by returning to Sitkoh Bay, where we had seen the bears earlier. Mama and her two cubs were still there, closer, as we watched from Zodiac School: the kids were getting a chance to steer those remarkable inflatable boats that make expedition cruising so adaptable and fun. Add to that an hour of kayaking and our day was full. Never mind the wind or the rain. After awhile we wear the weather like an old coat. Our rain pants are muddy, our faces bright, and already we’ve made new friends drawn together by discovery and joy, speaking the language of shared adventure.
