George Island, Elfin Cove & the Inian Islands


The National Geographic Sea Lion entered Idaho Inlet early this morning searching for the small somewhat adorable faced sea otter. We were rewarded immediately with opportunities to watch quietly from the bow, as several rafts of sea otters floated by, with the occasional animal raising its head in righteous indignation, as if to say, “what are you doing in my inlet!”

As breakfast was being served our ship moved north to its first morning anchorage of Granite Cove on George Island. Zodiacs and kayaks were lowered and brought ashore, in preparation for morning activities. Our morning Zodiac tour offered looks at pigeon guillemots in full mating song. Fabulous red-orange feet and matching mouths were paired off on many a rock ledge, as pairs of these lovely small diving birds came ashore to sing to each other. As we listened to the calls of the pigeon guillemots both tufted and horned puffins cruised past on their way to nearby nesting areas. Our early morning Zodiac tours were perfectly timed for viewing many sea birds either near their nesting area or preparing for their daily journey out to sea for fishing. Meanwhile kayakers were being launched from Granite Cove on George Island and making their way for a quiet and private cruise in the waters of this outpost island. George Island is located in Cross Sound facing the Pacific Ocean. It was the site of a World War II gunnery emplacement designed to protect the northern entrance to the Inside Passage

A group of hikers also made their way from the National Geographic Sea Lion onshore to hike through the forest, visiting the many small coves, secret beaches adorned with many wild flowers, with one group hiking to the top of George Island near the gun emplacement for views out over Cross Sound, where Humpback whales were lunge feeding in the currents. Cross Sound is the northern entrance for movement of much of the waters of the Pacific Ocean as it enters this part of Southeast Alaska. Every six hours huge tides bring the rich waters of the Pacific Ocean filled with phytoplankton, zooplankton small and large fish that feed many of the birds and marine mammals we have been so fortunate to see.

Our expedition leader had planned a full day, and the second part of our morning was spent visiting a small fishing village called Elfin Cove. This boardwalk community with no roads has a year round population of a few dozen, with at least one or two boats per person; skiffs included and an equal population of dogs! Zodiacs brought us to the main dock and we were free to wander the mile or so of boardwalk in search of kelp salsa, the perfect Elfin Cove fleece or local smoked salmon.

After everyone was back aboard, the National Geographic Sea Lion moved to her afternoon anchorage near the Inian Islands. This group of islands was slightly east of George Island and Elfin Cove. Zodiacs were lowered and once again we made a second circumnavigation of one of the northern Inian islands. Rowdy Stellar sea lion “boys” of both medium and enormous size roared as they challenged each other both on land and in the water around their haul outs. Around the island we stopped for views of puffins, bald eagles, oystercatchers, the occasional sea otters on land and wrapped in kelp beds and following the sound of distant roars we would approach yet another group of Stellar sea lions hauled out on the rocks of Northern Inian Island.

If this already full day was not enough, just after dinner we adjourned to the bow of the National Geographic Sea Lion to watch Humpback whales. Our ship had stopped just off of Point Adolphus, a well known feeding area for whales. As this gray on gray day with shades of dark green moved towards soft evening light we watched whale blows and one solitary Humpback whale breeching……and one small voice could be heard on the bow, “I’m whale watching, I’m whale watching!”