Pavlof Harbor & Sitkoh Bay

In the mouth of Freshwater Bay, on the east side of Chichagof Island lies Pavlof Harbor. It’s a scenic little bay, hosting a small stream that leads to a glorious waterfall. Beyond the falls is a lake that is the quintessential Alaskan alpine lake, surrounded by mountains, fringed with a grassy meadow and home to a family of beavers. This beautiful setting is well known as a favorite haunt of coastal brown bears and like most streams here, is a spawning ground for several species of Pacific salmon. Today there were pink salmon leaping near the entrance to the stream, and some have made their way to the base of the falls. Pinks or humpies are the most abundant and smallest of the five local species, and the least dependent on freshwater for their spawning grounds. They make their gravel nests or redds in the inner intertidal areas and are a two year fish.

As we approached our anchorage, a bear was spotted walking on the beach and a bit later along the trail we found abundant bear sign. Several fresh tracks, places where bears had dug up skunk cabbage and angelica roots, and of course the naturalist’s glee over scat colored deep purple with newly ripened blueberries. The bears have been awaiting the annual return of the salmon which supplies about seventy percent of their yearly nutritional needs.

Our afternoon’s search for wildlife brought us into Sitkoh Bay, a place of many salmon streams and another favorite hangout for brown bears. One large, dark brown healthy adult, probably a male, was checking out the shoreline and allowed us some excellent viewing.

Onboard the ship the local wildlife was feeling the need for a challenge and our expedition leader and crew set up a swim platform right off the stern of the National Geographic Sea Lion. Yes, really - sixteen hardy adventurers leapt into the very chilly 47 degree water of Southeast Alaska!

There was much merriment and many stories to tell during farewell cocktails. We laughed with delight at a video of the swimmers and reopened our hearts to the wonders and wildness of journey through Southeast Alaska with a photo slideshow of our shared expedition.