Sitkoh Bay & Chatham Strait

Early in the morning, the National Geographic Sea Lion reached the exit to the Peril Strait after a nighttime voyage from Sitka. Our first morning aboard dawned misty and cool as we neared the rocks that mark the entrance to the Chatham Strait. Shortly before breakfast, we sighted humpback whales nearby. We eagerly watched these large, but graceful, sea mammals as they lunged and splashed near the surface, likely feeding on herring or other small schooling fishes. These massive creatures depend on krill and tiny fishes for their diet since they can only swallow small prey. After a winter of fasting in the waters off Hawaii, they feast on the abundant food available to them in Alaskan waters. We watched the humpbacks feed in the early morning light, but soon the smell of our own breakfast tempted us down to the National Geographic Sea Lion’s dining room.

During breakfast we entered Sitkoh Bay, an inlet on the eastern shore of Chichagof Island. In the early 20th century, the bay housed a thriving salmon cannery. The abandoned buildings of the Chatham Cannery are the only surviving evidence of an isolated, but vibrant, fishing community that survived into the 1960s. The National Geographic Sea Lion anchored within Sitkoh Bay and we prepared for our first introduction to the temperate rainforest of Southeast Alaska. Once the Zodiacs delivered us safely to shore, we set out on hikes through the dense forest. Along our path, we noticed evidence of the large brown bears that call this island home. Fortunately, we did not encounter any bears, but just knowing that they were nearby in the dark woods provided us with a sense of excitement and wonder. Guests also had a chance to explore Sitkoh Bay by kayak. From water level, we could see large Sitka spruce and western hemlock trees towering over us at the edge of the forest. Bald eagles and red hawks wheeled overhead. The wild character of Southeast Alaska seemed very close at hand. Eventually, we returned to the ship and prepared for further adventures in the afternoon.

During lunch, we sailed into Chatham Strait, the large north-south channel that separates Chichagof Island from Admiralty Island. Early in the afternoon, we listened to a fascinating presentation by National Geographic Representative Tierney Thys. She presented stunning footage of animal life from around the planet and described the relationship between the eight major phyla of living creatures. “The Shape of Life” gave us a much better appreciation for our own unique place within the broader animal kingdom.

As Tierney finished her presentation, we caught sight of humpbacks in the distance. Soon we approached a large group of approximately eight humpback whales feeding near the shore of Admiralty Island. These whales were conducting a unique feeding practice known as bubble-net feeding. One whale sang a loud song that frightened the school of fishes. A different whale then surrounded the fish with a column of bubbles that scared them and moved the school closer together. Suddenly, the entire group of whales rushed upwards through the column of bubbles and forced the fish against the surface of the water. From our vantage point on the National Geographic Sea Lion, we watched as the mass of whales unexpectedly burst through the surface of the water, mouths wide open as they gulped immense quantities of water and fish. Their throat pleats bulged as they strained the water with their baleen and swallowed the fish whole. We followed these magnificent creatures as they slowly made their way north along the shore of Admiralty Island, periodically bubble-net feeding. As dinner time neared, the evening sun burst through the low clouds and turned the dark waters of Chatham Strait into liquid silver. Tonight, we reflect on our eventful first day aboard the National Geographic Sea Lion and prepare for a new day of adventure and excitement in Southeast Alaska.