Southeast Alaska’s Outer Coast

Here where the western edge of the continent meets the eastern edge of the Pacific Ocean, life is intense and abundant. The ocean currents rip through the islands of Southeast Alaska’s outer coast creating tremendous upwelling; a huge stirring of available nutrients. Steller’s sea lions, humpback whales, tufted puffins, bald eagles, pigeon guillemots and many other species thrive among the rocks exposed by winter storms. Kelp forests line the rocky waterways along the islands and provide habitat for sea otters, sea urchins, juvenile fish, crabs and countless other small creatures.

We spent our entire day exploring several of the exquisite small islands of the outer coast by Zodiac and by foot. George Island’s beautiful Granite Cove offered one group an opportunity to play and poke among the tide pools, learning about some of the unusual animals and special adaptations of life dependant on the tidal cycle. Another choice was the hike inland with the goal of reaching a WWII gun emplacement that once guarded this northern entrance to the Inside Passage. The walk leads through beautiful temperate rainforest with views to the north across Cross Sound to the Brady Glacier and surrounding mountains. Many of us had a great look at a Sitka black-tailed deer that was completely surprised by our mud covered hiking group. Zodiacs trips around the island provided memorable experiences watching whales and sea birds. I love the edges of places, the place where things are joined, where change constantly happens.

Nearby, in the Inian Islands, is a haul out for Steller’s sea lions. Whether growling, roaring, sleeping and fighting on the rocks, porpoising out of and leaping and rolling through the water, just being near these large curious marine mammals is a joyful experience. There were perhaps two hundred of them in residence today and we all enjoyed close looks and shared much laughter watching their delightful antics.