Pavlof Harbor/Chatham Strait
The last five days of our expedition have been full of wildlife and adventure. So when guests arose on this final day, some were hesitant to venture out in the rain. Michelle convinced everyone that it would be a good idea to put on the boots and other appropriate clothing for our final outing at Pavlof Harbor on Chichagof. Island. A salmon stream and a waterfall with a lovely lake above are the featured attractions here… not only for us, but also for the brown bears that need to fortify for the long winter ahead. Salmon are an excellent source of fat and protein for them to survive a period in their dens with no food. In keeping with past days, our luck and timing were remarkable. We broke into our hiking and kayak groups and followed the shoreline to find a bear at the base of the falls, looking for a meal. We watched and snapped pictures in silence, awestruck by the proximity of this wild Alaskan icon and the realization of our extraordinary experience. For the second round of hiking and kayaking, a second bear appeared and gave another great performance. It was a good demonstration of how difficult it can be to procure enough food as a wild animal. This bear was finally rewarded for its persistence, and another salmon will contribute its nutrients to the forest food web.
Humpback whales are also gorging at this time of year in preparation for a long migration to the nutrient-deprived warm waters of their winter breeding grounds – their response to a reduction in food supply. They will live on their body fat until they return to these rich feeding grounds next summer. We came across about a dozen humpbacks scattered around us in the middle of Chatham Strait this afternoon. We saw the gamut of surface behaviors, including lunge feeding, lob-tailing, pectoral fin slapping and breaching, mostly from just one spunky whale. The pattern became somewhat predictable for those who were patient with cameras ready on the bow.
Our voyage seemed to fly by, but as we reflect back on the week, the first day seems so long ago. We started with a drum roll and built up to a resounding crescendo, with all the players in the orchestra doing their part.
