Glacier Bay National Park

White ice. Black rock. Silver sea surface, pearly clouds and concrete-colored glacial rivers. This morning we emerged from sleep, into the nearly monochromatic world of the Ice Age that still exists in the upper reaches of Glacier Bay. Even the sparse vegetation appeared gray-green until a single sunbeam illuminated emerald alder leaves. As more people filtered onto the bow, our eyes were occasionally startled by the shock of a red rain jacket or bright yellow bibs. Several blue glaciers spilled down the fjord walls beside us, while in the distance we had the long view of Johns Hopkins Glacier, snaking from icefield to tidewater. The inlet ahead of us was filled with ice calved by this very active glacier, with many hauled-out harbor seals dotting the pieces in the distance. What a way to start the day.

Throughout the day we experienced every weather condition possible in Southeast Alaska. Clouds broke for sun, then reappeared more thickly. Calm seas were stirred by sudden gusting wind, before returning to their placid state. Dry guests and naturalists sought shelter under overhangs and awnings as infrequent rain squalls passed. At one point we had both sun and rain, graced by a nearly full rainbow.

After Johns Hopkins we motored up Tarr Inlet, to spend time at the face of Margerie Glacier. Black-legged kittiwakes of all ages crowded each other to perch on the floating ice, while colorful puffins paddled away. Later, at Gloomy Knob, we searched the steep cliff faces for mountain goats, and were not disappointed. Around the corner, a sub-adult brown bear ran into a salmon stream, rising on its hind legs repeatedly to search for fish. Two black bears in Geikie Inlet, Steller sea lions, puffins and a sea otter hauled out on land at South Marble Island made for a very full afternoon.

Then, just as we prepared to “recap” our day, a call from the Bridge sent us running back out on deck. The tall dorsal fin of a male killer whale had caught their attention, and then completely engrossed ours. For the half hour leading up to dinner, we watched four killer whales slice through the water, headed up-bay. What a way to end the day.